Around St Peter’s SquareThe Testimonium – The EndBill and AndreaFor this shirt, the walk is over
Inside the VaticanEntering the VaticanReunion in St Peter’s Square with BillDifferent view of the cityGetting closerFirst glimpse of the city of RomeRandom waterfall just outside the city of RomeGetting closerGoodbye Campagnano di Roma
First sight of Compagnana di RomaRoman amphitheatre at SutriSutri squareEntrance to SutriFirst imposing view of Sutri from the baseCapranica en route to SutriVetralla at nightGoodbye Viterbo – for nowBackstreets of ViterboMore historic shots of ViterboHistoric ViterboSan Martino al CiminoFantastic lunch with Alberto and FernandaRoman path out of MontefiasconeKiwi fruit growing – a common sightGoodbye MontefiasconeViews from the top of MontefiasconeLife at the top of Montefiascone for me, Andrea and FlorianThe duomo and surrounding views of MontefiasconeThe duomo at the top of MontefiasconeThe duomo at MontefiasconeMontefiascone townGateway to MontefiasconeMontefiascone approachBolsena townQuaint Bolsena townSmall church on the way into Bolsena
Volcanic Lake BolsenaFirst view of Lake BolsenaFields of beautiful sunflowersYet more Tuscan beautyMore Tuscan hillsLeaving RadicofaniRadicofani streetsThe tower at RadicofaniRadicofaniRadicofani by our accommodationRadicofani by our accommodationDaniel and Andrea in Radicofani after a beer
Tuscany hillsBagno Vignoni Tuscan villageTuscan views with MontalcinoJewish quarter in RadicofaniLooking South from Radicofani
Random carved stone on the walk to San Quirico d’OrciaSaying goodbye to Slovakian BarboraGoodbye SienaAnother view of Siena from our accommodationView of Siena from our accommodationDifferent angle of Siena churchSpectacular church in SienaVarious shots of SienaThe famous horse racing arena in SienaScenes of Siena in the main horse racing areaPalatial square in SienaEntry gate to SienaSwallowtail butterfly ?Viper coiled by the roadsideRandom Tuscan castleLarge stag beetleOne of the entrance archways into MonteriggioniAlmost goneSun going down – MonteriggioniFurther sunset shots in MonteriggioniSunset in MonteriggioniGroup photo on San GimignanoFirst sight of MonteriggioniStepping stones across the riverLooking down from Santa ChiaraPassing through another quaint old townAnother view of San GimignanoOne of many San Gimignano towersSan Gimignano centreTowers of San Gimignano
Streets of San GimignanoFirst sight of San GimignanoTuscan hills from Gambassi TermeGambassi Terme backstreetsLeaving the hostel at Gambassi TermeLeaving the hostel at Gambassi TermeSunset at Gambassi TermeOn the move with Andrea in the hot Tuscan hillsRolling Tuscan hillsTuscan hill walking with the grape vinesA sign on the way in TuscanyView of the steep hill to our OspedaleSan Miniato townWorn out ancient steps to Sam Miniato cathedralOld hospital in San MiniatoSan Miniato AltoBric a brac market in San MiniatoThe approach to San MiniatoSan Miniato Alto squareA typical Tuscan walkEvening festivities at AltopascioAltopascio squareLucca church at nightLucca at night believe it or notAnother gate entrance to LuccaInside historic LuccaOne of gate entrances to LuccaEvening view from our accommodation in PietrasantaChurch and our accommodationChurch with our accommodation in the backgroundArrived at PietrasantaFirst and last time on the beach during the VFTower relic opposite our accommodation in AvenzaThe seaside at lastAnother pretty village on the hillsideFirst sight of the sea since the ChannelVillage above AullaDelicious pizza at the pizzeriaLucuolo villagePretty Lusuolo villageOh dear, half the road has disappeared in a landslideMore views of PontremoliMore views of PontremoliAncient bridge out of PontremoliMore of PontremoliLeaving PontremoliPontremoli viewsPontremoliCisa pass and the entrance to TuscanySneaky glimpse of Cisa pass through the cloudAndrea and the 2 Italians at the Cisa pass summitThe windy Cisa pass summit in cloudPretty villagesCisa pass and the entrance to TuscanyTuscan hills at lastCrossing a suspension bridge which has seen better daysA Tuscan villagePontremoliPontremoli viewsLeaving PontremoliMore of PontremoliAncient bridge out of PontremoliMore views of PontremoliMore views of PontremoliOh dear, half the road has disappeared in a landslidePretty Lusuolo villageLucuolo village
Espresso maker ornamentsSmall village before BercetoWhy the 7 dwarfs all through France, Switzerland and Italy ?Andrea and his wooden mateMe and my wooden mateBeautiful morning with glorious views outside Fornovo Di TaLeaving Fornovo Di TaRolling hills resembling Tuscany but in Emilia RomagnaView when departing CostamezzaCostamezzana in sightJust like Tuscan hills but Emilia RomagnaBack in the hills of Emilia RomagnaOne of Fidenza’s churchesCentral FidenzaFarmhouse en route to Fidenza
Streets of Fiorenzuola-d’ArdaThe first sunflowers at Fiorenzuola-d’ArdaUnexpected river and mud crossing as we approached Fiorenzuola-d’ArdaMore buildings of PiacenzaBuilding in PiacenzaClassical building of PiacenzaBackstreets of PiacenzaMonument on entry to PiacenzaThe river at PiacenzaIt’s official – I left Lombardia and entered Emilia Romagna just before PiacenzaGlamorous building on leaving Orio LittaGlamorous building on leaving Orio LittaShock, horror when this arrived on my phone !!!
Grandiose building at Chignolo PoDifferent angle on the big church in the centre of PaviaChurch in the centre of Pavia
View outside the accommodation at GarlascoView outside the accommodation at GarlascoIbis in the rice paddiesKefir, galia melon and orange marmalade injected croissant breakfast in the parkDistances remaining from MortaraThe old pilgrim shelter in RobbioMileage sign just outside VercelliMore rice fields in VercelliEndless rice fields of PieMonteTown square in VercelliBack street Vercelli by the gelateriaLake Viverone from Roppolo castleTown square in IvreaCastle in Ivrea
Borgofranco de Ivrea towerBorgofranco de IvreaAnother Roman bridgeTypical Italian village streetsNarrow streets of La HoneLa Hone town on the riverOld railway to La Hone townLa Hone townJake crossing the Roman bridgeReconstructed Roman bridgeMan painting murals on the wall from a different angle in VerresMan painting murals on the wall in Verres
Bill prepping some dinner in VerresHotel on the hill just outside ChatillonRoman arch in ChantillonOnions growing in a typical small Italian villageBackstreets of a tiny Italian villageCamino style house on the Via FrancigenaMountain view above NusQuaint village on the way to NusStatue of Roman in AostaHotel de Ville – Aosta squareAbove the cathedral door in AostaThe cathedral in AostaThe cathedral in AostaNarrow streets of AostaWaterwheel in AostaItalian Alps villageMountain villages on the way to Aosta – note the pilgrim on the top of the light
Mountain View’s around AostaThrough the woods to AostaOn the way to AostaStunning views of the mountainsViews across the valley after leaving EchevennozMorning view from EchevennozView from Echevennoz accommodationEtroubles townInteresting statueAnother pilgrimTiny Italian villagesCraggy mountainsTunnel on the way down the mountainLooking down the valley – the route down from Great Saint BernardSki lift at Grand Saint BernardFrozen lake on the Italian border at Grand Saint BernardSt Bernard shop
Paul
Born to walk the world. Passionate to get out and meet people from all over the world, seek new understandings of how other people survive, their cultures and experience the excitement of trying new mouth watering dishes in new cuisines.
Saturday 15 June Grand Saint Bernard Pass to Echevennoz about 22 kms. The border to Italy was about 400 mtrs. Walked downhill continually in the pouring rain until midday with full waterproofs. The road you could see snaking beneath you for miles but the BF was just too dangerous due to snow, loose boulders and torrents of rain from a solid night of rain plus meltwater. Walking consistently downhill created backache problems as it was so steep. Many pretty villages en route. The temperature improved with the rapid descent which was welcome. Tendinitis seems to be improving so stuck mainly to the road to help it continue improving. Stopped at Carrefour Express in Italy which seemed ridiculously cheap after Switzerland. Arrived in Echevennoz mid afternoon and done some route planning/accommodation with Bill. The Australians are here too and we had the evening meal with them which was enjoyable. Cold room for sleeping in and wet shoes that are not going to dry until tomorrow.
Sunday 16 June Echevennoz to Nus approx 28 kms. Beautiful sunny morning and after breakfast, we said goodbye to our Australian comrades from Brisbane and I set off alone. A stunning walk through the forest on the VF with amazing mountain views all around. Passed through plenty of pretty villages and it made me feel so good to be alive. It warmed up quickly but the majority of the walk was downhill with a few exceptions. Visited the first major Italian town, Aosta, a Roman town with old bridges and archways (being renovated in scaffolding as always). It was very relaxed though with Italians bimbling through the streets aimlessly licking ice creams. Continued up into the hills producing more breathtaking views along with typical Lion King backdrops. A real change in temperature today and reached about 24 degrees C. Arrived at the destination pretty much the same time as Jake and Bill but couldn’t check in until 1530 so we had a delicious pizza (pear/walnut/blue cheese) and washed down with a Moretti Rosso (red beer). Visited the Carrefour Express for sorbet and other bits and sorted some washing once checked in. Clean, bright and basic accommodation for €21.50 which seems reasonable.
Monday 17 June Nus to Verres, exactly 30 kms. A tough day with multiple steep ascents and descents. Grabbed a couple of croissants for breakfast from the store and a huge roll which the girl made up for me with salami. Walked on the road for 7 kms or so but became tired of it and took to the hills on the VF. Dropped into Chantillon and bought more food but more importantly, liquid. Roman ruins in town and a typically small Italian town. Steep climb out of town and met some other walkers. Took a wrong turning on the VF and ended up at an old castle on top of the hill and Andrea was sat there chilling! We walked together and descended into Verres. Joined the others in the Trattoria for a beer and went to a gelateria. Called the host and we were picked up and taken to the accommodation. Right up in the hills in an old wooden chalet. Ate in and Jake set out to cook raclette, Andrea on the pasta.
Tuesday 18 June Verres to Borgofranco d’Ivrea approximately 28 kms in cloudy but humid weather, reaching 26 degrees. Carted back to our start point my Maria with Andrea. My wisdom tooth was very loose and becoming an obstacle for eating. Found Jake in town and headed along the river which was picturesque with a repaired Roman bridge. Came across a group of small towns, one of them called Hone with a castle on top. Very pretty and ancient. Then followed a mix of VF and small roads and reached Borgofranco d’Ivrea at an old tower. Had cafe de crème, like strong coffee ice cream which was absolutely delicious. The afternoon was very warm and constantly drinking cold drinks to try and keep cool. Didn’t each much today because of the tooth. Had the address for Couchsurfing/ Facebook which Bill had organised with an Italian couple in their flat. They kindly gave us access to their apartment so we could shower and unpack before they arrived. Went to a superb Gelateria for 3 scoops of ice cream and walked back for conversation and dinner. Pulled my tooth out beforehand so I could eat ! The evening disappeared and we retired early. The tooth fairy didn’t come.☹️
Wednesday 19 June Borgofranco d’Ivrea to Roppolo approximately 30 kms. Weather was hot and 25 degrees by 1100 hours. Had breakfast an said goodbye to our Couchsurfing hosts Maria and Massimo. Walked with Jake and stayed on small roads mainly until Ivrea where we had caught up with Bill. Bought sum sun cream for the expected heatwave. Branched off on small country roads then to be alone. Very flat landscape now and the hills have all but disappeared. Met up with Jake at Lake Viverone where he was taking a dip. Headed towards Roppolo up hill and went to the wrong address right on top of the hill ! Eventually found the accommodation let ourselves in, mixing up the rooms meaning we had to change again later. Washing done and ate lunch with Andrea who had arrived. Unquenchable thirst due to the heat. Trying to decide about our route down the coast of Italy between us.
Jean Clarke
You continue to amaze me Paul . Added to which , you pull your own tooth out !
Your pictures are stunning , and your blog is interesting, amusing , and informative . Keep going – I think about you every day.
Thursday 20 June Roppolo to Vercelli approx 33 kms. Grey skies but 21 degrees and stormy humid weather. Knew this was going to be a slog as the VF was a very long zigzagging route s opted for straight road all the way. Unfortunately, it was fast continuous traffic with multiple idiots on the road. Rain set in and turned heavy and it was a case of Andrea and me getting our heads down and getting on with it. This is rice plantation country and the water was Laing in the fields. It’s odd as many Italian people don’t eat rice apart from risotto. Even with waterproofs donned, I still got soaked and my shoes were swimming. Not many photos to upload as there was little of interest the whole day until we got to Vercelli. Vercelli is an old town/city and quite quaint. Bought some lovely focaccia bread on the way which was truly delicious. Bill arrived early and we went out for gelato which was to die for. Had a small walk around town and returned for dinner which was Camino style with a bunch of Americans. Very nice food though and good company. More rain predicted for tomorrow ☹️
Friday 21 June Vicello to Nicorvo approximately 26 kms. Very stormy and 21 degrees at 0745. Said goodby to Jake and Bill who have decided to go off and do their own thing. Started out without Andrea after breakfast. This has been a wonderful stay. Walked the VF all day and managed to avoid the worst of the thundery downpours. Stopped for a drink in a cafe at 1000 and all the men were already on the wine. Continued once the rain had stopped. Quite a diversity of birds here in the rice fields including the black and white ibis. Stopped for lunch at a supermarket in Roppio buying some dinner for tonight too (avoiding the rain) and finished off the last 7 kms. Pretty boring scenery as we are officially in Lombardia now which is renowned for being flat. Checked in at the basic hostel which is fine and went for a drink in the coffee shop. Dinner tonight, mainly cooked by Andrea (pasta) and a couple of Peroni Rossi beers !
Saturday 22 June Nicorvo to Garlasco approximately 30kms. Beautiful sunny but hot day after the most spectacular thunderstorm yesterday evening. Suffered a night of agony last night with not a lot of sleep – think it might be bursitis in my right big toe base 😲 Time for Nurofen as there won’t be time for rest. Left Andrea at the hostel as I was awake really early and we didn’t get breakfast. More rice fields so not a lot to report. Learned to look a few metres ahead to watch the banks of the paddy fields and the frogs launching themselves into the water. Met up with Derek again, a Belgian guy walking a partial VF and had a drink in Tromello. Walked with him to Garlasco and Andrea caught up and we had a drink and later a sundae in McD’s. The accommodation is allegedly a home for pilgrims but also a home for evicted people with problems …. Could be interesting but haven’t seen any of them yet. We’re right next to a noisy weir right out of town !
Rosella
Reading this remains as one of my fave parts of my morning! Keep going 💗
Sunday 23 June Garlasco to Pavia, approximately 22.5 kms. Left the ‘home’ after breakfast which was a strange affair. Walked with Derek from Belgium and Andrea in the persistent rain with waterproofs fully donned but still hot wet feet. Same scenery ie rice fields, but just got out heads down. Stopped for a cappuccino which was very civilised and then carried on to teach our destination. Walked past rover Ticino and eaten alive by mosquitoes. Stated on the road to avoid them and arrived in Pavia just after 1400. Checked into the nunnery and cleaned up ready for tomorrow. Went for Gyros with Andrea at a Greek restaurant and then hobbled back to the accommodation before going out together with Derek in the Erving for a couple of beers and a lovely pizza and red wine. He kindly paid for it which was unexpected but he insisted as he said he had enjoyed our company whilst walking and it was our last day together.
Monday 24 June Pavia to Santa Cristina, approximately 24 kms. Once again, it wasn’t long before the waterproofs were donned and then removed and then put on again, and so on. Some very heavy showers although still reasonably warm. Continued a while with Andrea before getting some food at a little village. Bought a nice big roll with crudo ham and spread thick with blue cheese. Had an apricot croissant and peach tea for take away breakfast. Still very flat landscape with occasional rice fields and maize but quite monotonous. Mainly VF but did take some shorter routes to try to keep our feet dry. Had an early lunch during a downpour under a shelter with lots of mosquitoes and the roll was delicious. Daniel, the French guy who stayed last night also joined us. We took some road then but it was very dangerous so we took a diversion. Although it was a relatively short day, both Andrea and I felt tired and we were glad when we arrived at the very basic accommodation in Santa Cristina. Not much there which proved a challenge. Nothing worthy of photographing today although we did see what looked like a dead squashed porcupine by the side of the dangerous road. We also heard and saw bee eaters from a distance, one of my favourite birds from the Mediterranean.
Tuesday 25 June Santa Cristina to Orio Litta, short day of about 16 kms, good under the circumstances. Once again we were destined to don full waterproofs from the start. There were severe thunderstorms in the night and continuing in the day. Scenery was pretty mundane although the Apennines are in the distance at last. Imagine our surprise when only ten minutes after leaving and treading down knee high soaked grass and vegetation my phone gave out very loud tones. Both Andrea and I looked startled and checked to see what it was.
IT-Alert
09:11
ALLARME PROTEZIONE CIVILE 25/06/24 ore
09:00 – Incidente nell’impianto industriale
ND436 AZA AMBIENTE S.P.A. con presenza di sostanze pericolose, nel Comune di Corteolona (PV). Trova riparo al chiuso e non avvicinarti all’impianto. Tieniti aggiornato e segui le indicazioni delle Autorità.
Civil Protection Alert 25/06/24 at 09:00 –
Accident at the ND436 A2A AMBIENTE S.P.A. industrial facility involving hazardous substances in the Municipality of Corteolona
(PV). Find indoor shelter and do not go near the facility. Keep up to date and follow the instructions of the authorities.
In the middle of nowhere, we checked where Corteolona was and thankfully we had passed it yesterday so we continued. It was later revealed that it was only a test ! We were looking for clouds (amongst the natural storm clouds) just in case. Soaked to the skin, we stopped later at a supermarket to buy some lunch and we were offered coffee and croissant as we were pellegrinis. People are very keen to look out for us in Italy and will go out of their way to help and assist. We trudged into Oreo Litta early afternoon and managed to get into the accommodation which is one of the most modern hostels we have stayed in, it really is very comfortable. Andrea done the honours with the pasta as we attempted to organise our forthcoming days, which is becoming complicated as there are many alternative routes. Forgot to say I briefly saw another Hoopoe today, my second sighting. For those uninitiated, it’s an orange and black striped crested bird with a curved beak.
Wednesday 26 June Orio Litta to Piacenza approximately 25 kms. A hot day after all the rain and very humid. Drizzled to start with but soon cleared up. I left ahead of Andrea after hugs from the host at the Osteria and took part quiet road to give my foot a chance to heal and went through the villages before joining the cycle track alongside the might Po river, swollen by recent rain. Very quiet on the newly tarmaced surface. Taken off through villages and then ran parallel to the main SS road into Piacenza. Arrived around 1300 and checked in and done usual admin. Had a walk around the town with Andrea later and had piadineria, a local wrap with Italian filling for dinner with apricot iced tea.
Thursday 27 June Piacenza to Fiorenzuola-d’Arda about 33 kms (after necessary diversion). Very hot today but left around 0630 as a long walk in expected heat. Picked up breakfast at a panettoni’s and made good progress. It very soon became hot and the scenery is changing but at least not so humid. Long winding country roads which made a nice change. Had one stretch of unpleasant SS road to navigate but only 2-3 kms. At one point we reached a river crossing which was risky and muddy either side leading up to it. Andrea went through it but I detoured and had another 3-4 kms to do as a result. I didn’t fancy falling in the river with my dodgy foot and losing everything. Got to the accommodation just after 1230 and went to get lunch from Lidl’s. I appear to had my first loss of a pair of clean walking socks which is highly annoying as I check and double check before leaving each place. Finished off the evening with a Poke bowl, smoothie and the mandatory ice cream (when in Rome).
Friday 28 June Fiorenzuola-d’Arda to Costamezza, approximately 35 kms. Started at 0630 as another hot day forecast. Got started before Andrea to test the foot without a tablet which worked well. No breakfast but ate some stale pizza bread from the previous lunch yesterday and a mushy banana washed down with water. It was around 23 degrees shortly after leaving but level ground, mainly tarmac on good quiet roads. Kept drinking plenty of liquid buying iced tea where possible. Scenery was much the same as previous days to start with. Had a few small few villages to pass through on the way to Fidenza which was about 22 kms. On arrival, had a look for a walking sock shop without success. Found a supermarket to top up on cold fluids. Andrea arrived and we had a pleasant walk around town. Headed out on the VF and the hills started to appear again which we were both happy for. It was good to stretch some different muscles for a change despite the heat. We both felt more at home in the hills which produced some rolling hill scenery not unlike Tuscany. Stopped at an Osteria restaurant but I just had more iced tea. Arrived at the
basic accommodation , not much here, no shops and one trattoria. Traffic is noisy through the village but it’s ok. Went out to eat at the trattoria, it was expensive but it was the only restaurant.
Saturday 29 June Costamezza to Fornovo Di Ta, approximately 24 kms in hot cloudy and sticky conditions. After a bad night’s sleep, started with a climb but all worth it as the scenery is spectacular. Partial VF and more direct routes on the road. Started ahead of Andrea who was moving slowly due to lack of sleep also. Struggling to keep the fluid levels up and constantly buying liquid of all varieties. Bought breakfast mid morning but wasn’t really hungry. A Nigerian guy asked me for money at the supermarket. I asked if he’d seen my shirt with holes in and suggested he gives me money to which he laughed. Arrived in Fornovo about 1300 hrs as it was intended to be a short day. Refilled with multiple drinks and Andrea turned up shortly after. Couldn’t get into the accommodation until 1500 and I fell asleep a couple of times while sat outside the church waiting. As we have a kitchen here, we decided to get some food in and cook.
Sunday 30 June Fornovo Di Ta to Berceto , approximately 33 kms with some serious hill climbs (and descents) with 30 degree heat. Started out with Andrea around 0645 after a home made breakfast and it was nice and cool, pleasing as we had an instant draining climb but producing stunning views. All VF today which was long and exceptionally tiring but we were prepared. Had some road to do but was limited. Unfortunately the winding mountain roads provided a playground on Sunday for the Ninjas on their motorbikes so constantly listening to highly revved engines. Stopped for a lemon iced tea which was delicious in a bar, served with ice cubes for a change. Saw my first snake on the descent to Berceto which was a larger town and busier than anticipated. Accommodation is basic but ok and will tackle the Chisa pass tomorrow at around 900 metres ASL. Hoping this could be the last of the serious hills as we head out of the Apennines. Had a look around Berceto where there was some sort of festival going on. Eating out tonight as no kitchen.
Monday 1 July Berceto to Pontremoli approximately 31 kms. A hard day on knees, feet, ankles and equipment. Andrea and I started the day with a visit to the bakery for croissant, juice and coffee and it was wise to start early as it was hot quite early on. We headed for the Cisa pass which was a steep and hard climb, almost vertical at times. We reached a point where we needed to make a decision whether we went to a viewpoint and decided to take that route despite the additional climb. When we reached the summit, we were surrounded in cloud and could see nothing but there was a howling gale and strangely, some horses ! There were another couple of Italian walkers that we’d met the previous day too. It was a precarious descent and with a heavy pack, there was no time to take your eyes of the ground. We reached the Cisa pass and had food and drink before continuing up into the forest. The temperature had dropped significantly so we had to keep moving. The paths continued to be challenging and we decided to go different routes at the end but I caught Andrea up at the end before reaching Pontremoli. We waited around for a while before the accommodation opened and the guy organising it them went on for half an hour in Italian. All I wanted was a shower, sort my washing etc but he continued to talk. Finally we were released and got down to chores. Decided to eat in so went shopping for food. When we came to eat the pizza, the oven didn’t work. There was a Welsh girl at the convent who was teaching TEFL. Slept with the window open and was woken at around 0500 with people strimming !
Tuesday 2 July Pontremoli to Aulla approximately 27 kms. After a fruity breakfast, Andrea and I decided to take separate routes as I wanted to give the constant jarring actions on my knees of the last couple of days a rest. I took the road which was not enjoyable to begin with but improved as the day went on. I called into Villafranca in Lunigiana for a look around and then retraced my steps to follow a smaller road with a small incline. There were no cars as the road was closed due to half of it missing due to a landslide. There were a few noticeably pretty villages en route and I met a Czech guy going the opposite direction. Pulled into Aulla around 1400 and had to wait around for a while for the accommodation to open and there were a couple of short sharp rain showers. Andrea arrived just after 1500 and the dorm is the fullest I’ve seen with pilgrims. Ate out at a nice pizzeria followed by good ice cream.
Wednesday 3 July Aulla to Avenza approximately 36 kms. Started the day in full waterproof gear with a very steep climb and I was soon wetter on the inside than the outer! Thin narrow paths through wooded hills made difficult work and constantly slipping on the large smooth rocks and stubbing my bad toe. Got our first sighting of the sea, albeit distant, since the English Channel. Eventually we started the descent to Sarzana which was a pleasant town and decided to get rid of the waterproofs. Separated briefly with Andrea and met him for lunch with focaccia which is famous in Liguria region which we have re-entered. I then took the more direct route to Avenza alone which was ok but never ending but seeing roadsigns for Pisa and Livorno at just 50 kms. Made the decision to head down to the seaside which, to be honest, was pretty disappointing. Made my way back inland to the accommodation and saw a woman who had been knocked off her bike. Checked into the dampish room and went out for some green pasta for evening meal which is a specialty for this region (back in Tuscany now) ! Finished off with a mandatory gelato.
Thursday 4 July Avenza to Pietrasanta approximately 22.6 kms short easy day. Took the alternate route along the coast as it is probably the last time we will potentially be next to the sea. The route was very flat. Andrea and I had breakfast at the panetteria and navigated our way through the streets. The seafront was typical of a seaside town but quiet. It wasn’t long until we arrived in the Massa outskirts and stretched out on the beach which was lovely. There are only a few public beaches which tend to be small but it was next to a WWF reserve. The accommodation is in a Covent, basic but clean. Went out for some lunch at a ponderosa (small pre-made pizza fast food) but perfect with iced tea. With another Andrea from Milan who we keep meeting and Daniel the French guy. All went out for a Pellegrino meal together for €15 in a quite classy restaurant. The food was excellent and enjoyed walking around town on the warm evening eating ice cream and relaxing,
Friday 5 July Pietrasanta to Lucca, approximately 34 kms. Hot sunny day with a long walk ahead of us. Had some croissants in town before departing and then got going on the VF. Soon had a big hill to get us warmed up and some good views of the towns below from the Apennines. Stick with the VF route mainly but took an alternative route to shave a couple of kms off. Stopped at a albergue at Valpromaro who were very welcoming and had quite a long chat. Mix of woods and roads but quite a bit of road on the VF route. Pushed on into Lucca alone, a lovely ancient town/city but full of Americans. Different style of hostel but still ok. Went out for Poke bowl once Andrea had arrived. Planned for the next day, met Celine a French solo travelling girl and then went out as a group of 5 for an evening meal and a beer followed by …. Yes you’ve guessed it, ice cream.
Saturday 6 July Lucca to Altopascio about 18kms. Hot day and despite meaning to have an easy day, I was up and out at 0715 for our short journey. Grabbed some croissants and lemon tea for breakfast and made my way out of town, solo. Much of the VF route was through small towns so fairly easy underfoot on tarmac. Met more pilgrims from Switzerland and France en route, there is certainly an increase in numbers. Got some fruit and drink from a supermarket and then stopped at an Osteria just a couple of kilometres from Altopascio and met more pilgrims who were all given a warm welcome and a drink. Arrived in town and met up with the others and had Cafe de Crema and a beer before going for a haircut. Had a late entry into the accommodation but there is abig festival on here right outside so very noisy with bands playing etc. Went out to eat as a group of 9 but eating availability was restricted due to the festivities. Had aperitifs with beer and followed up with gelato.
Dave R
Haircut? Hopefully they didn’t take too much off – you’re not playing with a full head as it is! ;o)
Sunday 7 July Altopascio to San Miniato – Alto about 29 kms. Looked like rain and distant thunder. It held off all day though thankfully. A mix of suburbia and woodland tracks. Not quite so hot but needed lots of liquid. Had breakfast and cafe lungo to start the day with the Italians. Stayed with Andrea much of the day and passed through some scenic towns. Fucecchio was a pleasant surprise, bigger than expected with panoramic views. Arrived in San Miniato Alto just after lunch, making swift progress. It was a steep climb into town followed by a sharp drop down to the hostel. It’s a very old hospital with lots of history. Made our way back into town up the 45 degree hill for beer and ice cream. It was worth it ! Dinner at the hostel tonight and we have the usual crowd here.
Monday 8 July San Miniato Alto to Gambassi Terme, approximately 24 kms. A very hot day and started with a steep climb up to San Miniato to get breakfast. Left as quite a group but soon broke up into smaller groups. I hung out with Andrea which worked well and we were soon clocking up some miles. Nowhere to buy refreshments en route but there were some water points later on. Mix of terrain, mostly tracks and undulating ground. Arrived just after lunch alone and chatted with Alina, a Russian girl who had arrived earlier. The heat by midday was formidable and resulted in an unquenchable thirst. Once most people had arrived, we made our way to the bar at the petrol station for liquid and lunch. Checked in st 1430 and walked up to Gambassi Terme for a Quick Look around and an ice cream. Washing had dried really quickly so back on top. Had a communal dinner at 1930 which was fun. Sat and chatted a while outside before turning in.
Tuesday 9 July Gambassi Terme to San Gimignano about 16 kms. 33 degree heat with a few hills but a relatively short day due to no hostels being available. Some spectacular scenery, it’s a joy to be out walking. Not many villages en route so not many chances to stock up on food and drink. San Gimignano is situated on a hilltop and a popular tourist attraction. Had a good walk around town and chilled with some people watching. Made our way to the camp site where we were staying early afternoon, a very compact cabin for three. Took the bus back to town for the evening as our group is beginning to dissolve as people have to go back to work. A good meal in the evening followed by the world’s best gelato – allegedly! Bussed back to the camp site at breakneck speed.
Wednesday 10 July San Gimignano to Monteriggioni, about 28 kms in 35 degree heat. Started off quite challenging but eased off a little, made easier by a croissant and cactus iced tea. Some pretty little ancient villages along the way. Walked solo today although met the others at different stages for drinks etc. Some lovely river/waterfalls along the way and although tempted, I didn’t swim. The last stretch to Monteriggioni was draining with a very steep hill after walking long straight stretches. First one in and managed to get showered and washing done before having a walk around the very small walled town. Had a focaccia sandwich and yet more drink and the others then arrived. Went for a group beer before dinner at the accommodation which worked well. Went for ice cream afterwards just to finish off. Ilena, the Russian girl turned up at dinner time so she joined us. An easier day tomorrow going to Siena.
Thursday 11 July Monteriggioni to Siena approximately 23 kms in extreme heat of 35 degrees. Walked alone for a while and then met up with Alina who sped up and walked with me. Found a coiled snake, a viper, by the side of the road, warming itself up. Glad of the shorter day as very few places to replenish water supplies or use a cafe and there was an extreme weather warning issued for the heat. I moved on to be solo again and some tough climbs to get into Siena. Met up with the others in town and wandered aimlessly around the narrow streets and squares. Checked in and showered and went back out to eat and drink and say goodbye to Andrea from Milan. Wandered the town again for ice cream and then cooked a hearty meal in the evening. The town is full of American tourists so getting around was kind of tough. Marco goes home tomorrow and Alina and Celine are staying for an additional day although Daniel the French guy will stick with us. Some sciatic pain which was uncomfortable today, hoping it settles tomorrow.
Friday 12 July Siena to Ponte d’Arbia, about 25.5 kms in 37 degree heat. Said a sad goodbye to Alina, Celine and Marco after breakfast, really sorry to see them go. We’re down to the hardcore now with Andrea, Daniel and myself. A fairly easy exit from Siena although we didn’t start until 0800. It soon warmed up though and I found myself leading the way through the industrial estates and alongside busy roads. Not many water points and only a couple of cafes and the tall slender Tuscan trees don’t offer a lot of shade. Only a couple of small villages en route but met a solo Italian lady who had just begun and then a Slovakian guy and his partner who was a multi talented girl, an artist who spoke excellent English. She was a really nice young girl and we sat for a couple of hours, just chatting in Ponte d’Arbia over fruit and iced tea. Checked into the hostel which is right alongside a busy and noisy road but quite a few pilgrims here. Had the customary beer with Andrea but no gelato ! Eating dinner at the hostel as there is very little available in the village. It was a wholesome meal with wine, no complaints !
Saturday 14 July Pont d’Arbia to San Quirico d’Orcia about 27 kms in scorching 36 degree heat. Had a terrible night sleep due to excessive traffic noise and other distractions. Surprised at the number of hills early on and walked with Florian a German primary school teacher for a few hours, after which he dropped back to slow down. Some very pretty typical Tuscan scenery today. Not many places to stop but made good use of them when I did. Arrived at San Quirico d’Orcia about 1245 but the sun was stifling and pleased to jump in a cold shower. Went to the bar for a beer and there was a grand wedding taking place. Shopped for tonight’s dinner and breakfast and lunch tomorrow as it’s Sunday and nothing is open. Big day tomorrow with very challenging terrain and an 900 metre climb so not looking forward to that in the heat. We’ve been warned how tough it is even when the weather is average.
Sunday 15 July San Quirico d’Arbia to Radicofani about 33 kms with huge altitude increase to finish for 7 kms in 30 degree heat. Up at 0500 for an 0600 start. Had some breakfast before leaving and loaded up on liquids. Went solo and started immediately on hills. Lovely scenery once again with several small river crossings which were thankfully dry. Managed to stop at an Agriturismo place for drinks before the long climb. Reached there just before 1300 and chilled in the shade and met up with the Slovakians. The hostel was very nice and central and the hosts were very welcoming. Daniel and Renee were in the same dorm with us. We went for a swift beer when Daniel arrived. Felt uncomfortable in the heat for the first time and didn’t fancy eating much. Went to the bar after dinner to drink Limon Soda and watch the England game in the Euro final.
Carol White
Everyone asking about your finish date and think you have done incredibly well.
2 weeks til I see you in Rome xxx
Monday 15 July Radicofani to Acquapendente, about 24 kms, much of it descending from Radicofani. Had sad news this morning that Daniel’s mother had passed away overnight and he needed to return to Alsace so we lost one of our good buddies. We had breakfast before saying fond farewells and I headed off solo with thoughts spinning in my head. More spectacular scenery which made me feel quite emotional. Met with a Grench cyclist on his gap year and then Florian. Andrea turned up at a water stop and we headed off together along the horrible busy stretch of road. Left beautiful Tuscany behind and moved into Lazio. Had a nice break before the ascent into Acquapendente and arrived soon after lunch. Had to have a beer to kill time, met some British cyclists from Yorkshire and then eventually checked in. Another cyclist turned up just as we were going to eat from Shrewsbury but he chose not to come out with us. Had a delicious meal for €20 and finished late but a really pleasant evening with Renee and Andrea.
Tuesday 16 July Acquapendente to Bolsena, about 25 kms. Very warm night with not much sleep and set off at 0700 solo, after a couple of cold nectarines. Surprisingly hilly to start with but then evened out for a while. Not many water stops or shots on the way although San Lorenzo provided brief respite with a couple of bananas. Sudden views of Lake Bolsena were gratifying and gave me something to look forward too a bit later on, after a sleep. Bolsena is a lovely little touristy town and the accommodation is right in the heart of it. Unquenchable thirst and had to wait a while to get access so hung out in a bar drinking Sprite. Took a dip in the volcanic lake in the afternoon which was not cold at all but good to experience. Bought food to eat on as there was a decent kitchen and had a sociable evening with Renee, Andrea and the hostel keeper.
Wednesday 17 July Bolsena to Montefiascone, short day of about 18 kms. Lovely views across Lake Bolsena from the hills and the heat seemed less oppressive today. Met up with Florian after starting out with Andrea and we walked into Montefiascone as a threesome. Montefiascone was as I remembered it, a steep climb up to the summit and the duomo but surrounding views were spectacular. Stayed around town for a while having a beer and then descended to the hostel which was another 3 kms away. The original Roman road was still in place for much of the way. The hostel was tucked away in a small village with not much there. Had a deep meaningful chat over dinner which was provided and it felt like being on the Camino for a while.
Thursday 18 July Montefiascone to Viterbo about 19 kms although I think it was a bit less. An easy day despite the heat and set off down the old Roman pathway alone after breakfast outside the accommodation. Soon hit the industrial zone which wasn’t too interesting. Met up with Florian and Andrea and made our way into Viterbo. I separated to go and try and find an old friend Alberto who I hadn’t seen for 20 years or so. To my amazement and delight, Fernanda answered the buzzer and our reunion was fantastic. It was like we’d never been apart and I was welcomed with open arms, in true Italian style. I was so delighted to see them , the food they suddenly provided for lunch was delicious and in the afternoon, Alberto took me and Andrea and Florian to San Martino al Cimino in his car and then drove us for a tour of old Viterbo.
Friday 19 July Viterbo to Vetralla, approximately 23 kms. Virtually no sleep due to the oppressive heat and banging of doors and then a very sub standard breakfast. I went back to my finish point yesterday evening and then retraced my steps but Andrea and Florian had already set off on the suggested original alternative route. I didn’t have an exact route and it took some time and battery phone power to get out of Viterbo. I set quite a pace and they had taken a wrong turning so I found myself out in front. Regrouped and walked the short distance into Vetralla. Had some breakfast at Euro Spin and some liquids and checked into the basic accommodation – what can you expect for €10 ! Slept and went for something to eat for late lunch and went out for pizza and beer for the evening. Florian has continued further as he has a deadline to meet.
Saturday 20 July Vetralla to Sutri (Fontevivola) about 24.5 kms. Slightly cooler today with quite a lot of cover from the trees in the forest and managed to get a better nights sleep as we had a fan. No breakfast but started at 0700 as we knew there was a stop on the way in about 10 kms. Quite a bit of climbing initially just to get the pulse racing. There was a lot of oak forest and like being back home (but much warmer). Found a nice panaficio and had focaccia with olives, a whole meal croissant and a cannoli with peach and rose iced tea. Felt much more lively after the half hour break. Came across some Roman tower and hospital ruins in the middle of a hazelnut orchard and olive grove but not much remained. Had a lengthy bit of wood with a river flowing by the VF footpath which was very pleasant. Climbed up into Sutri for lunch in a cafe and then made our way to the cathedral grounds to be picked up by the sisters at the convent in Fontevivola. We’ll be returned back there in the morning to continue on the VF. Checked in, showered, slept and done washing. We are now have just 67 kms from Rome. There is nothing here, no food or drink to buy as it’s provided with the evening meal and breakfast, good for a diet !
Sunday 21 July Sutri to Compagnana di Roma, approximately 25.5 kms. Not so unbearably hot today but still 34 degrees. There was a huge oak tree outside our accommodation with golden orioles, plenty of bee eaters and a couple of hoopoes at close distance, not to mention a couple of green woodpeckers. Slow start as we had to wait for the sisters to finish prayers before we could have breakfast. Nothing was rushed ! Breakfast was good so no complaints. We were dropped off at the Roman amphitheatre/cathedral where we were picked up yesterday and set off on the VF. Instantly confronted with hills but nothing too severe before turning into rolling countryside. Stopped at Montrose for some sustenance as there is nothing en route. Passed a nice outdoor area for families on a river but no refreshments available. More people walking here on short treks and noticeably busier. A very steep climb into Compagnana di Roma. Found a supermarket for lunch but the prices have risen quite a bit as we near Rome. Waited for the accommodation to open which is almost full with a party of 21 kids. Very hot and very basic with a host of house rules.
Carol White
You are so nearly there! What an amazing achievement xxx
Monday 22 July Compagnano di Roma to La Storta, approximately 22 kms. Woke to dark cloudy skies and spots of rain. Had breakfast in the bar opposite and then set off at 0700. There always seems to be hills at the start of the day, just to get the heart racing and the sweat flowing! Moved swiftly with Andrea to try to beat the rain and there was some surprisingly nice countryside scenery considering the short distance from Rome. The heat was less oppressive today but it was still very humid. Quite a lot of Camino type groups on the way, typically one or two day trippers. Stopped for refreshment at Formello at Carrefour before continuing. Heads down and pushing on past the day trippers, we arrived at La Storta about 1130 and managed to check in at the convent. We tried to pay by card but they said they would not be able to avoid the tax and we’d have to pay more note HMRC.it. Shared a room with Renee again to keep the cost down. Had lunch next door at the supermarket and completed admin. Had a good meal in the evening, it was a kind of departing meal as it’s setting in now that it’s all coming to an end. Just 19 kms to do tomorrow to the Vatican and then Game Over ☹️
Carol White
WOW! So close you can almost taste it! What an amazing achievement.🏆 Looking forward to Rome too 😎
Tuesday 23 July La Storta to St Peter’s Square in the Vatican, Rome, about 22 kms in total. After breakfast, we started out as a trio, Renee, Andrea and me and had to stay on the road for some distance. The heat was not so intense and we maintained a good speed. We eventually broke off into the forest which was welcome for a change and involved some hills, some pretty steep ! Lots of congratulatory messages arriving which helped to pass the time. We finally got a first glimpse of Rome from a park and obviously more following that. When we reached the real city, it became quite tiresome waiting for traffic lights but we eventually arrived at the bustling St Peter’s Square. Bill and his missionary friend was there to greet us which was nice. We managed to get the testimonium without too much bother, met with Florian and his girlfriend, had a CV look around the cathedral and left the hub bub behind to get a beer or two. It’s such an odd feeling, it’s kind of a flat feeling but also one of pleasure having completed but where to from here ? Said goodbye to Renee and checked in at the convent. Basic but friendly welcoming staff. Bought a €10 fan for the very hot room and some new clothes as most will now be discarded. Just before dinner, we had the foot washing ceremony where one foot was washed and then kissed. A bit weird but didn’t want to offend. Dinner was good and hope to get out to explore more tomorrow. It’s finally over and not sure how I will adjust but will see how it plays out. The end ?
Paul Harper
Well done Paul, what an amazing achievement!! Let me know when back and I’ll buy you a beer – not kissing your feet though!!
Julie
Congratulations Paul, an amazing achievement. Now please enjoy some rest xx
Saturday 15 June Grand Saint Bernard Pass to Echevennoz about 22 kms. The border to Italy was about 400 mtrs. Walked downhill continually in the pouring rain until midday with full waterproofs. The road you could see snaking beneath you for miles but the BF was just too dangerous due to snow, loose boulders and torrents of rain from a solid night of rain plus meltwater. Walking consistently downhill created backache problems as it was so steep. Many pretty villages en route. The temperature improved with the rapid descent which was welcome. Tendinitis seems to be improving so stuck mainly to the road to help it continue improving. Stopped at Carrefour Express in Italy which seemed ridiculously cheap after Switzerland. Arrived in Echevennoz mid afternoon and done some route planning/accommodation with Bill. The Australians are here too and we had the evening meal with them which was enjoyable. Cold room for sleeping in and wet shoes that are not going to dry until tomorrow.
Welcome to Italy 🇮🇹
🍕 xxx
Sunday 16 June Echevennoz to Nus approx 28 kms. Beautiful sunny morning and after breakfast, we said goodbye to our Australian comrades from Brisbane and I set off alone. A stunning walk through the forest on the VF with amazing mountain views all around. Passed through plenty of pretty villages and it made me feel so good to be alive. It warmed up quickly but the majority of the walk was downhill with a few exceptions. Visited the first major Italian town, Aosta, a Roman town with old bridges and archways (being renovated in scaffolding as always). It was very relaxed though with Italians bimbling through the streets aimlessly licking ice creams. Continued up into the hills producing more breathtaking views along with typical Lion King backdrops. A real change in temperature today and reached about 24 degrees C. Arrived at the destination pretty much the same time as Jake and Bill but couldn’t check in until 1530 so we had a delicious pizza (pear/walnut/blue cheese) and washed down with a Moretti Rosso (red beer). Visited the Carrefour Express for sorbet and other bits and sorted some washing once checked in. Clean, bright and basic accommodation for €21.50 which seems reasonable.
Monday 17 June Nus to Verres, exactly 30 kms. A tough day with multiple steep ascents and descents. Grabbed a couple of croissants for breakfast from the store and a huge roll which the girl made up for me with salami. Walked on the road for 7 kms or so but became tired of it and took to the hills on the VF. Dropped into Chantillon and bought more food but more importantly, liquid. Roman ruins in town and a typically small Italian town. Steep climb out of town and met some other walkers. Took a wrong turning on the VF and ended up at an old castle on top of the hill and Andrea was sat there chilling! We walked together and descended into Verres. Joined the others in the Trattoria for a beer and went to a gelateria. Called the host and we were picked up and taken to the accommodation. Right up in the hills in an old wooden chalet. Ate in and Jake set out to cook raclette, Andrea on the pasta.
Tuesday 18 June Verres to Borgofranco d’Ivrea approximately 28 kms in cloudy but humid weather, reaching 26 degrees. Carted back to our start point my Maria with Andrea. My wisdom tooth was very loose and becoming an obstacle for eating. Found Jake in town and headed along the river which was picturesque with a repaired Roman bridge. Came across a group of small towns, one of them called Hone with a castle on top. Very pretty and ancient. Then followed a mix of VF and small roads and reached Borgofranco d’Ivrea at an old tower. Had cafe de crème, like strong coffee ice cream which was absolutely delicious. The afternoon was very warm and constantly drinking cold drinks to try and keep cool. Didn’t each much today because of the tooth. Had the address for Couchsurfing/ Facebook which Bill had organised with an Italian couple in their flat. They kindly gave us access to their apartment so we could shower and unpack before they arrived. Went to a superb Gelateria for 3 scoops of ice cream and walked back for conversation and dinner. Pulled my tooth out beforehand so I could eat ! The evening disappeared and we retired early. The tooth fairy didn’t come.☹️
Wednesday 19 June Borgofranco d’Ivrea to Roppolo approximately 30 kms. Weather was hot and 25 degrees by 1100 hours. Had breakfast an said goodbye to our Couchsurfing hosts Maria and Massimo. Walked with Jake and stayed on small roads mainly until Ivrea where we had caught up with Bill. Bought sum sun cream for the expected heatwave. Branched off on small country roads then to be alone. Very flat landscape now and the hills have all but disappeared. Met up with Jake at Lake Viverone where he was taking a dip. Headed towards Roppolo up hill and went to the wrong address right on top of the hill ! Eventually found the accommodation let ourselves in, mixing up the rooms meaning we had to change again later. Washing done and ate lunch with Andrea who had arrived. Unquenchable thirst due to the heat. Trying to decide about our route down the coast of Italy between us.
You continue to amaze me Paul . Added to which , you pull your own tooth out !
Your pictures are stunning , and your blog is interesting, amusing , and informative . Keep going – I think about you every day.
Thanks Jean, it’s a struggle to do last thing at night sometimes but your comments make it more worthwhile x
Thursday 20 June Roppolo to Vercelli approx 33 kms. Grey skies but 21 degrees and stormy humid weather. Knew this was going to be a slog as the VF was a very long zigzagging route s opted for straight road all the way. Unfortunately, it was fast continuous traffic with multiple idiots on the road. Rain set in and turned heavy and it was a case of Andrea and me getting our heads down and getting on with it. This is rice plantation country and the water was Laing in the fields. It’s odd as many Italian people don’t eat rice apart from risotto. Even with waterproofs donned, I still got soaked and my shoes were swimming. Not many photos to upload as there was little of interest the whole day until we got to Vercelli. Vercelli is an old town/city and quite quaint. Bought some lovely focaccia bread on the way which was truly delicious. Bill arrived early and we went out for gelato which was to die for. Had a small walk around town and returned for dinner which was Camino style with a bunch of Americans. Very nice food though and good company. More rain predicted for tomorrow ☹️
Friday 21 June Vicello to Nicorvo approximately 26 kms. Very stormy and 21 degrees at 0745. Said goodby to Jake and Bill who have decided to go off and do their own thing. Started out without Andrea after breakfast. This has been a wonderful stay. Walked the VF all day and managed to avoid the worst of the thundery downpours. Stopped for a drink in a cafe at 1000 and all the men were already on the wine. Continued once the rain had stopped. Quite a diversity of birds here in the rice fields including the black and white ibis. Stopped for lunch at a supermarket in Roppio buying some dinner for tonight too (avoiding the rain) and finished off the last 7 kms. Pretty boring scenery as we are officially in Lombardia now which is renowned for being flat. Checked in at the basic hostel which is fine and went for a drink in the coffee shop. Dinner tonight, mainly cooked by Andrea (pasta) and a couple of Peroni Rossi beers !
Saturday 22 June Nicorvo to Garlasco approximately 30kms. Beautiful sunny but hot day after the most spectacular thunderstorm yesterday evening. Suffered a night of agony last night with not a lot of sleep – think it might be bursitis in my right big toe base 😲 Time for Nurofen as there won’t be time for rest. Left Andrea at the hostel as I was awake really early and we didn’t get breakfast. More rice fields so not a lot to report. Learned to look a few metres ahead to watch the banks of the paddy fields and the frogs launching themselves into the water. Met up with Derek again, a Belgian guy walking a partial VF and had a drink in Tromello. Walked with him to Garlasco and Andrea caught up and we had a drink and later a sundae in McD’s. The accommodation is allegedly a home for pilgrims but also a home for evicted people with problems …. Could be interesting but haven’t seen any of them yet. We’re right next to a noisy weir right out of town !
Reading this remains as one of my fave parts of my morning! Keep going 💗
Sunday 23 June Garlasco to Pavia, approximately 22.5 kms. Left the ‘home’ after breakfast which was a strange affair. Walked with Derek from Belgium and Andrea in the persistent rain with waterproofs fully donned but still hot wet feet. Same scenery ie rice fields, but just got out heads down. Stopped for a cappuccino which was very civilised and then carried on to teach our destination. Walked past rover Ticino and eaten alive by mosquitoes. Stated on the road to avoid them and arrived in Pavia just after 1400. Checked into the nunnery and cleaned up ready for tomorrow. Went for Gyros with Andrea at a Greek restaurant and then hobbled back to the accommodation before going out together with Derek in the Erving for a couple of beers and a lovely pizza and red wine. He kindly paid for it which was unexpected but he insisted as he said he had enjoyed our company whilst walking and it was our last day together.
Monday 24 June Pavia to Santa Cristina, approximately 24 kms. Once again, it wasn’t long before the waterproofs were donned and then removed and then put on again, and so on. Some very heavy showers although still reasonably warm. Continued a while with Andrea before getting some food at a little village. Bought a nice big roll with crudo ham and spread thick with blue cheese. Had an apricot croissant and peach tea for take away breakfast. Still very flat landscape with occasional rice fields and maize but quite monotonous. Mainly VF but did take some shorter routes to try to keep our feet dry. Had an early lunch during a downpour under a shelter with lots of mosquitoes and the roll was delicious. Daniel, the French guy who stayed last night also joined us. We took some road then but it was very dangerous so we took a diversion. Although it was a relatively short day, both Andrea and I felt tired and we were glad when we arrived at the very basic accommodation in Santa Cristina. Not much there which proved a challenge. Nothing worthy of photographing today although we did see what looked like a dead squashed porcupine by the side of the dangerous road. We also heard and saw bee eaters from a distance, one of my favourite birds from the Mediterranean.
Tuesday 25 June Santa Cristina to Orio Litta, short day of about 16 kms, good under the circumstances. Once again we were destined to don full waterproofs from the start. There were severe thunderstorms in the night and continuing in the day. Scenery was pretty mundane although the Apennines are in the distance at last. Imagine our surprise when only ten minutes after leaving and treading down knee high soaked grass and vegetation my phone gave out very loud tones. Both Andrea and I looked startled and checked to see what it was.
IT-Alert
09:11
ALLARME PROTEZIONE CIVILE 25/06/24 ore
09:00 – Incidente nell’impianto industriale
ND436 AZA AMBIENTE S.P.A. con presenza di sostanze pericolose, nel Comune di Corteolona (PV). Trova riparo al chiuso e non avvicinarti all’impianto. Tieniti aggiornato e segui le indicazioni delle Autorità.
Civil Protection Alert 25/06/24 at 09:00 –
Accident at the ND436 A2A AMBIENTE S.P.A. industrial facility involving hazardous substances in the Municipality of Corteolona
(PV). Find indoor shelter and do not go near the facility. Keep up to date and follow the instructions of the authorities.
In the middle of nowhere, we checked where Corteolona was and thankfully we had passed it yesterday so we continued. It was later revealed that it was only a test ! We were looking for clouds (amongst the natural storm clouds) just in case. Soaked to the skin, we stopped later at a supermarket to buy some lunch and we were offered coffee and croissant as we were pellegrinis. People are very keen to look out for us in Italy and will go out of their way to help and assist. We trudged into Oreo Litta early afternoon and managed to get into the accommodation which is one of the most modern hostels we have stayed in, it really is very comfortable. Andrea done the honours with the pasta as we attempted to organise our forthcoming days, which is becoming complicated as there are many alternative routes. Forgot to say I briefly saw another Hoopoe today, my second sighting. For those uninitiated, it’s an orange and black striped crested bird with a curved beak.
Wednesday 26 June Orio Litta to Piacenza approximately 25 kms. A hot day after all the rain and very humid. Drizzled to start with but soon cleared up. I left ahead of Andrea after hugs from the host at the Osteria and took part quiet road to give my foot a chance to heal and went through the villages before joining the cycle track alongside the might Po river, swollen by recent rain. Very quiet on the newly tarmaced surface. Taken off through villages and then ran parallel to the main SS road into Piacenza. Arrived around 1300 and checked in and done usual admin. Had a walk around the town with Andrea later and had piadineria, a local wrap with Italian filling for dinner with apricot iced tea.
Thursday 27 June Piacenza to Fiorenzuola-d’Arda about 33 kms (after necessary diversion). Very hot today but left around 0630 as a long walk in expected heat. Picked up breakfast at a panettoni’s and made good progress. It very soon became hot and the scenery is changing but at least not so humid. Long winding country roads which made a nice change. Had one stretch of unpleasant SS road to navigate but only 2-3 kms. At one point we reached a river crossing which was risky and muddy either side leading up to it. Andrea went through it but I detoured and had another 3-4 kms to do as a result. I didn’t fancy falling in the river with my dodgy foot and losing everything. Got to the accommodation just after 1230 and went to get lunch from Lidl’s. I appear to had my first loss of a pair of clean walking socks which is highly annoying as I check and double check before leaving each place. Finished off the evening with a Poke bowl, smoothie and the mandatory ice cream (when in Rome).
Friday 28 June Fiorenzuola-d’Arda to Costamezza, approximately 35 kms. Started at 0630 as another hot day forecast. Got started before Andrea to test the foot without a tablet which worked well. No breakfast but ate some stale pizza bread from the previous lunch yesterday and a mushy banana washed down with water. It was around 23 degrees shortly after leaving but level ground, mainly tarmac on good quiet roads. Kept drinking plenty of liquid buying iced tea where possible. Scenery was much the same as previous days to start with. Had a few small few villages to pass through on the way to Fidenza which was about 22 kms. On arrival, had a look for a walking sock shop without success. Found a supermarket to top up on cold fluids. Andrea arrived and we had a pleasant walk around town. Headed out on the VF and the hills started to appear again which we were both happy for. It was good to stretch some different muscles for a change despite the heat. We both felt more at home in the hills which produced some rolling hill scenery not unlike Tuscany. Stopped at an Osteria restaurant but I just had more iced tea. Arrived at the
basic accommodation , not much here, no shops and one trattoria. Traffic is noisy through the village but it’s ok. Went out to eat at the trattoria, it was expensive but it was the only restaurant.
Saturday 29 June Costamezza to Fornovo Di Ta, approximately 24 kms in hot cloudy and sticky conditions. After a bad night’s sleep, started with a climb but all worth it as the scenery is spectacular. Partial VF and more direct routes on the road. Started ahead of Andrea who was moving slowly due to lack of sleep also. Struggling to keep the fluid levels up and constantly buying liquid of all varieties. Bought breakfast mid morning but wasn’t really hungry. A Nigerian guy asked me for money at the supermarket. I asked if he’d seen my shirt with holes in and suggested he gives me money to which he laughed. Arrived in Fornovo about 1300 hrs as it was intended to be a short day. Refilled with multiple drinks and Andrea turned up shortly after. Couldn’t get into the accommodation until 1500 and I fell asleep a couple of times while sat outside the church waiting. As we have a kitchen here, we decided to get some food in and cook.
Sunday 30 June Fornovo Di Ta to Berceto , approximately 33 kms with some serious hill climbs (and descents) with 30 degree heat. Started out with Andrea around 0645 after a home made breakfast and it was nice and cool, pleasing as we had an instant draining climb but producing stunning views. All VF today which was long and exceptionally tiring but we were prepared. Had some road to do but was limited. Unfortunately the winding mountain roads provided a playground on Sunday for the Ninjas on their motorbikes so constantly listening to highly revved engines. Stopped for a lemon iced tea which was delicious in a bar, served with ice cubes for a change. Saw my first snake on the descent to Berceto which was a larger town and busier than anticipated. Accommodation is basic but ok and will tackle the Chisa pass tomorrow at around 900 metres ASL. Hoping this could be the last of the serious hills as we head out of the Apennines. Had a look around Berceto where there was some sort of festival going on. Eating out tonight as no kitchen.
Monday 1 July Berceto to Pontremoli approximately 31 kms. A hard day on knees, feet, ankles and equipment. Andrea and I started the day with a visit to the bakery for croissant, juice and coffee and it was wise to start early as it was hot quite early on. We headed for the Cisa pass which was a steep and hard climb, almost vertical at times. We reached a point where we needed to make a decision whether we went to a viewpoint and decided to take that route despite the additional climb. When we reached the summit, we were surrounded in cloud and could see nothing but there was a howling gale and strangely, some horses ! There were another couple of Italian walkers that we’d met the previous day too. It was a precarious descent and with a heavy pack, there was no time to take your eyes of the ground. We reached the Cisa pass and had food and drink before continuing up into the forest. The temperature had dropped significantly so we had to keep moving. The paths continued to be challenging and we decided to go different routes at the end but I caught Andrea up at the end before reaching Pontremoli. We waited around for a while before the accommodation opened and the guy organising it them went on for half an hour in Italian. All I wanted was a shower, sort my washing etc but he continued to talk. Finally we were released and got down to chores. Decided to eat in so went shopping for food. When we came to eat the pizza, the oven didn’t work. There was a Welsh girl at the convent who was teaching TEFL. Slept with the window open and was woken at around 0500 with people strimming !
Tuesday 2 July Pontremoli to Aulla approximately 27 kms. After a fruity breakfast, Andrea and I decided to take separate routes as I wanted to give the constant jarring actions on my knees of the last couple of days a rest. I took the road which was not enjoyable to begin with but improved as the day went on. I called into Villafranca in Lunigiana for a look around and then retraced my steps to follow a smaller road with a small incline. There were no cars as the road was closed due to half of it missing due to a landslide. There were a few noticeably pretty villages en route and I met a Czech guy going the opposite direction. Pulled into Aulla around 1400 and had to wait around for a while for the accommodation to open and there were a couple of short sharp rain showers. Andrea arrived just after 1500 and the dorm is the fullest I’ve seen with pilgrims. Ate out at a nice pizzeria followed by good ice cream.
Wednesday 3 July Aulla to Avenza approximately 36 kms. Started the day in full waterproof gear with a very steep climb and I was soon wetter on the inside than the outer! Thin narrow paths through wooded hills made difficult work and constantly slipping on the large smooth rocks and stubbing my bad toe. Got our first sighting of the sea, albeit distant, since the English Channel. Eventually we started the descent to Sarzana which was a pleasant town and decided to get rid of the waterproofs. Separated briefly with Andrea and met him for lunch with focaccia which is famous in Liguria region which we have re-entered. I then took the more direct route to Avenza alone which was ok but never ending but seeing roadsigns for Pisa and Livorno at just 50 kms. Made the decision to head down to the seaside which, to be honest, was pretty disappointing. Made my way back inland to the accommodation and saw a woman who had been knocked off her bike. Checked into the dampish room and went out for some green pasta for evening meal which is a specialty for this region (back in Tuscany now) ! Finished off with a mandatory gelato.
Thursday 4 July Avenza to Pietrasanta approximately 22.6 kms short easy day. Took the alternate route along the coast as it is probably the last time we will potentially be next to the sea. The route was very flat. Andrea and I had breakfast at the panetteria and navigated our way through the streets. The seafront was typical of a seaside town but quiet. It wasn’t long until we arrived in the Massa outskirts and stretched out on the beach which was lovely. There are only a few public beaches which tend to be small but it was next to a WWF reserve. The accommodation is in a Covent, basic but clean. Went out for some lunch at a ponderosa (small pre-made pizza fast food) but perfect with iced tea. With another Andrea from Milan who we keep meeting and Daniel the French guy. All went out for a Pellegrino meal together for €15 in a quite classy restaurant. The food was excellent and enjoyed walking around town on the warm evening eating ice cream and relaxing,
Friday 5 July Pietrasanta to Lucca, approximately 34 kms. Hot sunny day with a long walk ahead of us. Had some croissants in town before departing and then got going on the VF. Soon had a big hill to get us warmed up and some good views of the towns below from the Apennines. Stick with the VF route mainly but took an alternative route to shave a couple of kms off. Stopped at a albergue at Valpromaro who were very welcoming and had quite a long chat. Mix of woods and roads but quite a bit of road on the VF route. Pushed on into Lucca alone, a lovely ancient town/city but full of Americans. Different style of hostel but still ok. Went out for Poke bowl once Andrea had arrived. Planned for the next day, met Celine a French solo travelling girl and then went out as a group of 5 for an evening meal and a beer followed by …. Yes you’ve guessed it, ice cream.
Saturday 6 July Lucca to Altopascio about 18kms. Hot day and despite meaning to have an easy day, I was up and out at 0715 for our short journey. Grabbed some croissants and lemon tea for breakfast and made my way out of town, solo. Much of the VF route was through small towns so fairly easy underfoot on tarmac. Met more pilgrims from Switzerland and France en route, there is certainly an increase in numbers. Got some fruit and drink from a supermarket and then stopped at an Osteria just a couple of kilometres from Altopascio and met more pilgrims who were all given a warm welcome and a drink. Arrived in town and met up with the others and had Cafe de Crema and a beer before going for a haircut. Had a late entry into the accommodation but there is abig festival on here right outside so very noisy with bands playing etc. Went out to eat as a group of 9 but eating availability was restricted due to the festivities. Had aperitifs with beer and followed up with gelato.
Haircut? Hopefully they didn’t take too much off – you’re not playing with a full head as it is! ;o)
So true mate but made all the difference and with 35 degree heat, any little bit helps!
You be careful with those haircuts, you’re not starting with much anyway! ;o)
Sunday 7 July Altopascio to San Miniato – Alto about 29 kms. Looked like rain and distant thunder. It held off all day though thankfully. A mix of suburbia and woodland tracks. Not quite so hot but needed lots of liquid. Had breakfast and cafe lungo to start the day with the Italians. Stayed with Andrea much of the day and passed through some scenic towns. Fucecchio was a pleasant surprise, bigger than expected with panoramic views. Arrived in San Miniato Alto just after lunch, making swift progress. It was a steep climb into town followed by a sharp drop down to the hostel. It’s a very old hospital with lots of history. Made our way back into town up the 45 degree hill for beer and ice cream. It was worth it ! Dinner at the hostel tonight and we have the usual crowd here.
Monday 8 July San Miniato Alto to Gambassi Terme, approximately 24 kms. A very hot day and started with a steep climb up to San Miniato to get breakfast. Left as quite a group but soon broke up into smaller groups. I hung out with Andrea which worked well and we were soon clocking up some miles. Nowhere to buy refreshments en route but there were some water points later on. Mix of terrain, mostly tracks and undulating ground. Arrived just after lunch alone and chatted with Alina, a Russian girl who had arrived earlier. The heat by midday was formidable and resulted in an unquenchable thirst. Once most people had arrived, we made our way to the bar at the petrol station for liquid and lunch. Checked in st 1430 and walked up to Gambassi Terme for a Quick Look around and an ice cream. Washing had dried really quickly so back on top. Had a communal dinner at 1930 which was fun. Sat and chatted a while outside before turning in.
Tuesday 9 July Gambassi Terme to San Gimignano about 16 kms. 33 degree heat with a few hills but a relatively short day due to no hostels being available. Some spectacular scenery, it’s a joy to be out walking. Not many villages en route so not many chances to stock up on food and drink. San Gimignano is situated on a hilltop and a popular tourist attraction. Had a good walk around town and chilled with some people watching. Made our way to the camp site where we were staying early afternoon, a very compact cabin for three. Took the bus back to town for the evening as our group is beginning to dissolve as people have to go back to work. A good meal in the evening followed by the world’s best gelato – allegedly! Bussed back to the camp site at breakneck speed.
Wednesday 10 July San Gimignano to Monteriggioni, about 28 kms in 35 degree heat. Started off quite challenging but eased off a little, made easier by a croissant and cactus iced tea. Some pretty little ancient villages along the way. Walked solo today although met the others at different stages for drinks etc. Some lovely river/waterfalls along the way and although tempted, I didn’t swim. The last stretch to Monteriggioni was draining with a very steep hill after walking long straight stretches. First one in and managed to get showered and washing done before having a walk around the very small walled town. Had a focaccia sandwich and yet more drink and the others then arrived. Went for a group beer before dinner at the accommodation which worked well. Went for ice cream afterwards just to finish off. Ilena, the Russian girl turned up at dinner time so she joined us. An easier day tomorrow going to Siena.
Thursday 11 July Monteriggioni to Siena approximately 23 kms in extreme heat of 35 degrees. Walked alone for a while and then met up with Alina who sped up and walked with me. Found a coiled snake, a viper, by the side of the road, warming itself up. Glad of the shorter day as very few places to replenish water supplies or use a cafe and there was an extreme weather warning issued for the heat. I moved on to be solo again and some tough climbs to get into Siena. Met up with the others in town and wandered aimlessly around the narrow streets and squares. Checked in and showered and went back out to eat and drink and say goodbye to Andrea from Milan. Wandered the town again for ice cream and then cooked a hearty meal in the evening. The town is full of American tourists so getting around was kind of tough. Marco goes home tomorrow and Alina and Celine are staying for an additional day although Daniel the French guy will stick with us. Some sciatic pain which was uncomfortable today, hoping it settles tomorrow.
Friday 12 July Siena to Ponte d’Arbia, about 25.5 kms in 37 degree heat. Said a sad goodbye to Alina, Celine and Marco after breakfast, really sorry to see them go. We’re down to the hardcore now with Andrea, Daniel and myself. A fairly easy exit from Siena although we didn’t start until 0800. It soon warmed up though and I found myself leading the way through the industrial estates and alongside busy roads. Not many water points and only a couple of cafes and the tall slender Tuscan trees don’t offer a lot of shade. Only a couple of small villages en route but met a solo Italian lady who had just begun and then a Slovakian guy and his partner who was a multi talented girl, an artist who spoke excellent English. She was a really nice young girl and we sat for a couple of hours, just chatting in Ponte d’Arbia over fruit and iced tea. Checked into the hostel which is right alongside a busy and noisy road but quite a few pilgrims here. Had the customary beer with Andrea but no gelato ! Eating dinner at the hostel as there is very little available in the village. It was a wholesome meal with wine, no complaints !
Saturday 14 July Pont d’Arbia to San Quirico d’Orcia about 27 kms in scorching 36 degree heat. Had a terrible night sleep due to excessive traffic noise and other distractions. Surprised at the number of hills early on and walked with Florian a German primary school teacher for a few hours, after which he dropped back to slow down. Some very pretty typical Tuscan scenery today. Not many places to stop but made good use of them when I did. Arrived at San Quirico d’Orcia about 1245 but the sun was stifling and pleased to jump in a cold shower. Went to the bar for a beer and there was a grand wedding taking place. Shopped for tonight’s dinner and breakfast and lunch tomorrow as it’s Sunday and nothing is open. Big day tomorrow with very challenging terrain and an 900 metre climb so not looking forward to that in the heat. We’ve been warned how tough it is even when the weather is average.
Sunday 15 July San Quirico d’Arbia to Radicofani about 33 kms with huge altitude increase to finish for 7 kms in 30 degree heat. Up at 0500 for an 0600 start. Had some breakfast before leaving and loaded up on liquids. Went solo and started immediately on hills. Lovely scenery once again with several small river crossings which were thankfully dry. Managed to stop at an Agriturismo place for drinks before the long climb. Reached there just before 1300 and chilled in the shade and met up with the Slovakians. The hostel was very nice and central and the hosts were very welcoming. Daniel and Renee were in the same dorm with us. We went for a swift beer when Daniel arrived. Felt uncomfortable in the heat for the first time and didn’t fancy eating much. Went to the bar after dinner to drink Limon Soda and watch the England game in the Euro final.
Everyone asking about your finish date and think you have done incredibly well.
2 weeks til I see you in Rome xxx
23 July if all goes to plan.
Monday 15 July Radicofani to Acquapendente, about 24 kms, much of it descending from Radicofani. Had sad news this morning that Daniel’s mother had passed away overnight and he needed to return to Alsace so we lost one of our good buddies. We had breakfast before saying fond farewells and I headed off solo with thoughts spinning in my head. More spectacular scenery which made me feel quite emotional. Met with a Grench cyclist on his gap year and then Florian. Andrea turned up at a water stop and we headed off together along the horrible busy stretch of road. Left beautiful Tuscany behind and moved into Lazio. Had a nice break before the ascent into Acquapendente and arrived soon after lunch. Had to have a beer to kill time, met some British cyclists from Yorkshire and then eventually checked in. Another cyclist turned up just as we were going to eat from Shrewsbury but he chose not to come out with us. Had a delicious meal for €20 and finished late but a really pleasant evening with Renee and Andrea.
Tuesday 16 July Acquapendente to Bolsena, about 25 kms. Very warm night with not much sleep and set off at 0700 solo, after a couple of cold nectarines. Surprisingly hilly to start with but then evened out for a while. Not many water stops or shots on the way although San Lorenzo provided brief respite with a couple of bananas. Sudden views of Lake Bolsena were gratifying and gave me something to look forward too a bit later on, after a sleep. Bolsena is a lovely little touristy town and the accommodation is right in the heart of it. Unquenchable thirst and had to wait a while to get access so hung out in a bar drinking Sprite. Took a dip in the volcanic lake in the afternoon which was not cold at all but good to experience. Bought food to eat on as there was a decent kitchen and had a sociable evening with Renee, Andrea and the hostel keeper.
Wednesday 17 July Bolsena to Montefiascone, short day of about 18 kms. Lovely views across Lake Bolsena from the hills and the heat seemed less oppressive today. Met up with Florian after starting out with Andrea and we walked into Montefiascone as a threesome. Montefiascone was as I remembered it, a steep climb up to the summit and the duomo but surrounding views were spectacular. Stayed around town for a while having a beer and then descended to the hostel which was another 3 kms away. The original Roman road was still in place for much of the way. The hostel was tucked away in a small village with not much there. Had a deep meaningful chat over dinner which was provided and it felt like being on the Camino for a while.
Thursday 18 July Montefiascone to Viterbo about 19 kms although I think it was a bit less. An easy day despite the heat and set off down the old Roman pathway alone after breakfast outside the accommodation. Soon hit the industrial zone which wasn’t too interesting. Met up with Florian and Andrea and made our way into Viterbo. I separated to go and try and find an old friend Alberto who I hadn’t seen for 20 years or so. To my amazement and delight, Fernanda answered the buzzer and our reunion was fantastic. It was like we’d never been apart and I was welcomed with open arms, in true Italian style. I was so delighted to see them , the food they suddenly provided for lunch was delicious and in the afternoon, Alberto took me and Andrea and Florian to San Martino al Cimino in his car and then drove us for a tour of old Viterbo.
Friday 19 July Viterbo to Vetralla, approximately 23 kms. Virtually no sleep due to the oppressive heat and banging of doors and then a very sub standard breakfast. I went back to my finish point yesterday evening and then retraced my steps but Andrea and Florian had already set off on the suggested original alternative route. I didn’t have an exact route and it took some time and battery phone power to get out of Viterbo. I set quite a pace and they had taken a wrong turning so I found myself out in front. Regrouped and walked the short distance into Vetralla. Had some breakfast at Euro Spin and some liquids and checked into the basic accommodation – what can you expect for €10 ! Slept and went for something to eat for late lunch and went out for pizza and beer for the evening. Florian has continued further as he has a deadline to meet.
Saturday 20 July Vetralla to Sutri (Fontevivola) about 24.5 kms. Slightly cooler today with quite a lot of cover from the trees in the forest and managed to get a better nights sleep as we had a fan. No breakfast but started at 0700 as we knew there was a stop on the way in about 10 kms. Quite a bit of climbing initially just to get the pulse racing. There was a lot of oak forest and like being back home (but much warmer). Found a nice panaficio and had focaccia with olives, a whole meal croissant and a cannoli with peach and rose iced tea. Felt much more lively after the half hour break. Came across some Roman tower and hospital ruins in the middle of a hazelnut orchard and olive grove but not much remained. Had a lengthy bit of wood with a river flowing by the VF footpath which was very pleasant. Climbed up into Sutri for lunch in a cafe and then made our way to the cathedral grounds to be picked up by the sisters at the convent in Fontevivola. We’ll be returned back there in the morning to continue on the VF. Checked in, showered, slept and done washing. We are now have just 67 kms from Rome. There is nothing here, no food or drink to buy as it’s provided with the evening meal and breakfast, good for a diet !
Sunday 21 July Sutri to Compagnana di Roma, approximately 25.5 kms. Not so unbearably hot today but still 34 degrees. There was a huge oak tree outside our accommodation with golden orioles, plenty of bee eaters and a couple of hoopoes at close distance, not to mention a couple of green woodpeckers. Slow start as we had to wait for the sisters to finish prayers before we could have breakfast. Nothing was rushed ! Breakfast was good so no complaints. We were dropped off at the Roman amphitheatre/cathedral where we were picked up yesterday and set off on the VF. Instantly confronted with hills but nothing too severe before turning into rolling countryside. Stopped at Montrose for some sustenance as there is nothing en route. Passed a nice outdoor area for families on a river but no refreshments available. More people walking here on short treks and noticeably busier. A very steep climb into Compagnana di Roma. Found a supermarket for lunch but the prices have risen quite a bit as we near Rome. Waited for the accommodation to open which is almost full with a party of 21 kids. Very hot and very basic with a host of house rules.
You are so nearly there! What an amazing achievement xxx
Monday 22 July Compagnano di Roma to La Storta, approximately 22 kms. Woke to dark cloudy skies and spots of rain. Had breakfast in the bar opposite and then set off at 0700. There always seems to be hills at the start of the day, just to get the heart racing and the sweat flowing! Moved swiftly with Andrea to try to beat the rain and there was some surprisingly nice countryside scenery considering the short distance from Rome. The heat was less oppressive today but it was still very humid. Quite a lot of Camino type groups on the way, typically one or two day trippers. Stopped for refreshment at Formello at Carrefour before continuing. Heads down and pushing on past the day trippers, we arrived at La Storta about 1130 and managed to check in at the convent. We tried to pay by card but they said they would not be able to avoid the tax and we’d have to pay more note HMRC.it. Shared a room with Renee again to keep the cost down. Had lunch next door at the supermarket and completed admin. Had a good meal in the evening, it was a kind of departing meal as it’s setting in now that it’s all coming to an end. Just 19 kms to do tomorrow to the Vatican and then Game Over ☹️
WOW! So close you can almost taste it! What an amazing achievement.🏆 Looking forward to Rome too 😎
Tuesday 23 July La Storta to St Peter’s Square in the Vatican, Rome, about 22 kms in total. After breakfast, we started out as a trio, Renee, Andrea and me and had to stay on the road for some distance. The heat was not so intense and we maintained a good speed. We eventually broke off into the forest which was welcome for a change and involved some hills, some pretty steep ! Lots of congratulatory messages arriving which helped to pass the time. We finally got a first glimpse of Rome from a park and obviously more following that. When we reached the real city, it became quite tiresome waiting for traffic lights but we eventually arrived at the bustling St Peter’s Square. Bill and his missionary friend was there to greet us which was nice. We managed to get the testimonium without too much bother, met with Florian and his girlfriend, had a CV look around the cathedral and left the hub bub behind to get a beer or two. It’s such an odd feeling, it’s kind of a flat feeling but also one of pleasure having completed but where to from here ? Said goodbye to Renee and checked in at the convent. Basic but friendly welcoming staff. Bought a €10 fan for the very hot room and some new clothes as most will now be discarded. Just before dinner, we had the foot washing ceremony where one foot was washed and then kissed. A bit weird but didn’t want to offend. Dinner was good and hope to get out to explore more tomorrow. It’s finally over and not sure how I will adjust but will see how it plays out. The end ?
Well done Paul, what an amazing achievement!! Let me know when back and I’ll buy you a beer – not kissing your feet though!!
Congratulations Paul, an amazing achievement. Now please enjoy some rest xx