Mouthier Haute Pierre sceneryThe lush green fields of Southern FrancePanoramic view from the walk up the mountain
The river in Ornans
Leaving behind BresanconPretty streets of OrnansPretty streets of Ornans
Interesting objects at someone’s open windows in BresanconApproach to Besancon accommodationMural in Bresancon on a buildingArriving at Bresancon with Bill aheadLeaving Frasne-le-ChateauRoman ruins on BesanconA warm welcome at Frasne-le-ChateauMontotView from Leffond accommodationChamplitte chateauxChamplitte towns quaint streetsYet another beautiful French town
Lake at Saint CierguesFrench countryside with beautiful wild flowersEntrance to LangresNotre Dame Langres
Not always fun, especially in the heavy rain
The village centre at Unienville
Back streets in Bar-sur-AubeThe village centre at UnienvilleDolancourtEntry into Bar-sur-Aube
Dinner with the Italian pelerins
More canalsOdd house in the middle of a foestUnusual church on the river in DienvilleNever ending Roman roadsInteresting name for a beer !Wines of VerzenayOld grape pressChampagne as far as you can seeChampagne windmillChampagne region near CormicyNotre Dame ReimsNotre Dame in ReimsDoorway out of LaonLeaving LaonVia Francigena in Hauts de FranceBruyeres-et-Montbetault ‘high street’Abbaye de Vauclair Cistercian abbeyGreen pasturesLac du AlleteWild boar roadkill – the stench 🤢A large shy French snail in the woodsSteep hill into LaonOne of the majestic buildings in one of the squares in LaonColourful umbrellas in Laon shopping precinctCathedral of Notre Dame in LaonOld buildings in Laon next to the cathedralA decorative alleyway in LaonEvidence of WW2 atrocities by the Nazi’s in Laon
Canal to Tergnier and beyondCommonwealth War Graves at Mount St EloiPerrone marketplace
Perrone marketplace
Mont St Bloi sunsetMont St Bloi ruinsLidl’s lunch in a bus stopLunch break without lunchWind turbines everywhereSt Paul’s abbey – so silent apart from the bells
Heading to SwitzerlandHeading to SwitzerlandUnusual letterboxUnusual letterboxCraggy hilltops leaving PontarlierSouth France castle outside PontarlierExit from PontarlierHill fort outside of PontarlierSouth France castle outside PontarlierCraggy hilltops leaving PontarlierUnusual letterboxSwiss customsPontarlier town with Bill misbeavingPontarlier statuePontarlier statuePontarlier town with Bill misbeaving
Paul
Born to walk the world. Passionate to get out and meet people from all over the world, seek new understandings of how other people survive, their cultures and experience the excitement of trying new mouth watering dishes in new cuisines.
Arrived at Calais at midday but had to wait a while for the vehicles to disembark. Cooler today. Walked into Calais town hall with Vigo and then went our separate ways with me continuing to Guînes. Walked alongside the canal for a lot of the walk but it was a leisurely day aimed at letting the feet recover. Wishing I’d had more time to brush up on my atrocious French as every small thing seems so difficult. Managed to find accommodation costing more than I hoped for and went to a Portuguese restaurant in the hope the waitress would speak Spanish but no …. Only French.
14th May 2024 Set off from Guînes in the rain with waterproofs on. It wasn’t too long before they were off as I was sweating buckets. It rained on and off in the morning but turned into more persistent heavy rain in the afternoon. It was a long day about 44kms and I arrived at St Paul Abbey in Wisques cold, very wet and hungry. The monks were all dressed in black hooded robes and were mainly silent. I had to be led to evening meal by the grand master, I washed my hands in a silver dish of water offered by the grand master and then had to observe all the protocols in place. Eating is done in silence although there was endless chanting. I was the only pilgrim there but there were two other men guests (male only) and one was on a retreat from the UK although he was French but currently living in Oxford and working for Airbus ! I didn’t get a lot of sleep as the bed creaked every time I moved. It was lights out at 2045 as the services started at 0430. The monks were all very charming but it was quite a relief to get back out to normality.
15th May Left the almost surreal experience of staying in the abbey after having a couple of small slices of bread for breakfast. Managed to get some miles in as there was a lot of road walking and where it had rained yesterday, it was wet claggy soil underfoot so road is good. Unfortunately I did have one stretch in long grass and got stung by the nettles several times as they were unavoidable and my feet got soaked again. Ended up with a relatively short day of about 44 kms and rolled into a farmhouse gite hostel which is very nice. Unfortunately there has been no food available so I have survived on water and cashew nuts I had left over from England. I was greeted with a blond beer which went down very well. More pilgrims are expected but no sign yet at 1830. Looking forward to some dinner tonight !
Jean Clarke
You are absolutely amazing. Can’t believe you have been surviving on water and cashew nuts. And there you are , burning up hundreds of calories. Love reading your blog Paul – constantly thinking about you xx
Julie williams
From Auntie Jean, as good as any book. Ju has promised to read each Thursday when she stays & I can’t wait for next weeks chapter! Lots of love & happy walking
Tracey
Sounds fun !!!!! 😬 I honestly don’t know how you do it especially the lack of food but it all sounds really interesting. Thanks for sharing everything, loving the photos.
Take care and we look forward to the next installment xoxo
Thursday 16th May – Started out in pouring rain and I mean pouring! That lasted for a good 3 hours of sloshing through puddles and slipping and sliding in mud. Came across a Lidl’s so I treated myself to some food for later on. There was quite a bit of navigating around houses and streets today which made life harder. By lunchtime though, the waterproofs were discarded and gathered some speed over the hills and high ground. At 42kms, I started to look for somewhere to stay but the first place was full. I then had a serious climb to Mont St Eloi which meant going back on myself. I was lucky to stay with some old retired pilgrims (a retired doctor) and his charming wife. More blonde beer which is growing on me. I then ate at a restaurant almost next door and made my way to a bar on the other side (who had helped me with finding the accommodation) for more beer and enjoyed a convivial evening with the occupants discussing the nuances of the French language. Beautiful sunset.
Friday 17th May Mont St Eloi to Bapaume. Started seeing many war graves as this was an area from WW1 which was a focal point with so many young men tragically losing their lives. I’ve tried to imagine what it must have been like but it’s impossible to think of their hardship and misery. There are still shells discarded by the side of the paths, over 100 years ago. It’s moving to see how immaculately the commonwealth war graves are kept after all this time. Walked through Arras, again a focal point which was a pretty town. Met a couple from the south of France near Switzerland who were doing part of the via Francigena. Accommodation proved to be elusive in Bapaume and by phone, I managed to find somewhere right out of town so I started to walk there in the rain. I was collected from the church at Villers au Flos by the Vietnamese host and taken to Ytres to their lovely home. Long day again.
Sat 18 May Bapaume to Saint Quentin. Taken back to the church where I was picked up last night. Rain moved in with grey skies as far as I could see. More war graves today, very sobering. Met an English couple having lunch, Zoe and Ben from Dorset. They are camping and walked at a more relaxed pace so I went solo again. No luck with accommodation again as it is apparently a long weekend and the fire I was banking on was booked by a Dutch group who were heading to Normandy with their wartime vehicles for the anniversary. I was kindly given a lift by one of the horse riders at the property into Saint Quentin which is huge. First hotel fully booked but got into the Ibis Budget. Again, some kind man stopped and gave me a lift to more or less the hotel. It’s pretty basic but is adequate. Some new blisters today, one nasty blood blister , maybe the sock had slipped in the shoes. Feet got wet and looks like a hole in one of the shoes 😧. Had a salad and other bits in the square where the wino’s sit and then tried planning how to get back to Trefcon to continue where I left off.
Carol White
Good luck! You can always have a rest day 😘
Joan
What an amazing man you are Paul. We are all so very proud of you, love reading your blog and hearing all your interesting stories.
Keep well and rest your feet.
Lots of love Joan & Tony xxx
Sunday 19 May St Quentin to Trefcon to Seraucourt-le-Grand. Frustrating start as no trains or buses running on Sunday to Trefcon where I finished walking last night. Taxi prices were ridiculous so decided to walk the 18 kms back in just about 3 hrs. Saint Quentin was beautifully quiet at that time of the morning but nothing was open so missed out on breakfast and had to make do with a Snickers bar. Once I’d arrived at Trefcon, I had to retrace a few kms of the same ground but I couldn’t cheat myself and not do the whole thing. A lot of road walking and it was warm too and thundery. Again, not much open so missed out on lunch but did manage to get some liquid refreshment – not beer. Rolled into Seraucourt-le-Grand early afternoon and ended up in a caravan for the night on a very nice campground. The woman receptionist was so helpful and spoke good English and she helped me book the next couple of nights accommodation on the phone. Often the highlight of the day is a hot shower and it didn’t disappoint! A local shop opened in the afternoon so pasta for dinner which I shared with a Dutch guy Peter who is cycling to Santiago in Spain. A really nice guy, we spent the evening chewing the fat about the change in Dutch government and autism and ADHD. Eaten alive by huge mosquitoes with equally huge bites !
Monday 20 May Seraucourt-le-Grand to Septvaux. Thunder in the night and cuckoo’s calling until dark and then early morning. I left before anyone else was up and it was quite cool which was handy as it was quite hilly to start. It’s a bank holiday today so not many cars on the road to start with and quite a bit of road walking. After a good leg and foot soaking in the long grass, I was alongside a beautiful canal with continued for many kms to Tergnier and beyond which to be honest became quite boring as you could see where you were going so far ahead with no changes in scenery. Everything is shut again but in Saint Gobain which required a tough hill climb, there was some kind of market on. The next village was my destination – Septvaux and was very remote. It’s an old chateau in the woods and I’ve only seen the woman who doesn’t speak English once. She rather reminds me of the film where the woman hobbles the car driver who gets injured with a sledgehammer – Misery. There doesn’t appear to be a key to lock the door so might sleep with one eye open tonight. Cooked a huge bowl of pasta which she kindly drove out to get some ingredients (just like the film) but now there is total silence. Good job I don’t spook too easily.
Carol White
Hope you sleep well and you are NOT part of Misery 2 x
Jane
Wow Paul. Really enjoying reading about your journey. You must publish it later
Take care. Xx
Tuesday 21 May Septvaux to Laon. Had an enjoyable breakfast and settled up after checking my ankles were intact 🤪 Started in mist/low cloud as quite high altitude. Walked through thick forest and not a soul in sight. Avoided some of the seriously muddy tracks and took the roads where possible. Waterproofs were on and off as the mist developed into proper rain for a couple of hours. A very steep climb into Laon to the walled medieval town. Very quaint with cobbled streets and ancient buildings. Made my way to the cathedral of Notre Dame and found the accommodation. The host is a lovely lady in a very old fashioned house, full of historical artefacts. The bedroom is like taking a century back in time but more than adequate. Had a long chat with the 85 year old host about various things including her memories of the German occupation, World War 1 and the current international crises. Had a chilled walk around the town snapping away taking photos. Joined by a couple of French hikers, similar age to me, doing just a few days of walking. Congregating for a meal at 1900.
Wednesday 22 May Laon to Pontavert 32 kms. Restful day with easy flat walking most of the time in nature reserves. Laon was so interesting, as was the charming host. Sharp descent from Laon through small picturesque villages. Made good time and had one funny part where a walkway was being replaced by about 6 French workmen. They said I couldn’t pass as it was too dangerous. I told them to close their eyes (twice) and then just went for it while they stood there open mouthed while I crossed with the get out clause ‘I don’t understand’. Lunch on a hilltop in Corbeny before arriving in Pontavert mid afternoon. Passed a rotting wild boar in a field (see photo) which stunk to high heaven but was a large beast. Hotel is more up market than usual and not sure how I’ll be accepted in my rags for the 3 course meal tonight !
Jean Clarke
Interesting photos today Paul . Apart from the boar . Still love reading your daily blog. Always something grabs me – today it was when you asked the workmen to close their eyes !
Thursday 23 May Pontavert to Reims about 40kms. A mixed terrain day with some good climbs at times, some awkwardly big puddles and plenty of mud. Started out thinking I might do mainly road where I could, which meant a few extra kms. Tried going off road but the long grass was so wet it wasn’t practical. Had some woodland just past the champagne region of Cormicy but eaten alive by mosquitoes without realising! More WW1 memorials and a cloudy day overall with one heavy shower where I took shelter. Reims seemed to be getting further away towards the end of the day and was actually rather disappointing. It’s a big city with a lovely cathedral with big buildings like London. Maybe I missed it all but very underwhelming. Staying at a monastery tonight with nuns and one other Dutch pilgrim going to Versailles. Very little English spoken here and 3 miles out of town. It’s a welcome basic break but I’ve decided I don’t like big cities and prefer the smaller villages with a family atmosphere.
Carol White
No beer tonight then – sleep well! Looking forward to the case of champagne 🍾 arriving 🤣x
Friday 24 May Reims to Trepail, short day, about 25 kms. Left the monastery around 0745 and made good progress on the dry flat canal path for 10 kms. Back into the Champagne vineyards along with the vicious huge mosquitoes. Some hill work today, especially to reach the hilltop with a windmill ! Some woodland but satisfyingly dry. Repeal was like a ghost town not a soul in sight. The old lady running the property had to go out and left me in charge. She doesn’t speak a word of English do quite amusing 😂. Made good use of the day to complete admin. Dinner looks delicious, true French cuisine cooked by the host.
Saturday 25 May Trépail to Saint Germaine le Ville about 43 kms. Loving the chilly mornings with low cloud as it’s a chance to get some miles in before the cloud clears. Fairly easy going underfoot and much of it was along the canal which had a tarmacked footpath. Didn’t see many people out although there was a run along the canal path. Had the opportunity to buy some lunch bits in Lidl’s in Châlons-en-Champagne. My old friend Tian kindly drove down from Brussels to meet up which was a great gesture and we went out for food and a beer. It was great to catch up but he decided not to stay and head back about 2115. Had a shower incident earlier after tumbling and couldn’t get out of the shower. All good now though 👍.
Carol White
Wow you covered a lot of mileage today! Glad tomorrow is less. XXX
Sunday 26 May Saint Germaine le Ville to Balignicourt, just over 50 kms. Waited for breakfast until just before 0800 but with no sign of anybody, decided to forfeit it so I didn’t lose valuable time. Popped into the local boulangerie and had fresh croissants etc. A lot of the walking today was on old Roman roads which are covered in gravel but you can see for miles ahead where you are going. On top of that, had a stiff wind in my face nearly all day. Unknowingly burnt my head although didn’t get any direct exposure to the sun. Pushed hard and arrived around 1730 where we had cherry beer which went down a treat. The dinner was a delight, true French cooking with a few glasses of different apperatifs. Very friendly family working on the farm.
Julie
Wow Paul, I’m exhausted just reading this!
Think I need a lay down!
Anyway keep going, keep smiling and keep enjoying life xx
Monday 27 May Balignicourt to Unienville approx 38 kms (more than I planned thanks to inaccuracies with the map), plus everything shuts on Monday – more than usual😉 Sorry to leave the family stay but time waits for nobody. Made good progress on the road and tracks although I need to watch where I’m treading so the odd small rock doesn’t dig into my blistered left foot. Map sent me off through an unbelievably muddy wood which was not fun. I also missed the town I was hoping to visit to visit the hole in the wall to get some more cash so had an additional 6 kms to retrace steps. I was also hoping to get some lunch but everything was shut like a ghost town. Did get 1.5l of cold water which I pretty much guzzled down in one. Not many remarkable things to photograph, maybe I’m just getting used to the scenery? Glad to arrive at the accommodation as I have a very sore foot. I’m alone in the Gite and have cooked an omelette and shown where everything is by the visiting host who was very friendly. I have to say people have been amazingly helpful and with my very limited French, I think having a go is appreciated. Less miles planned tomorrow as a lot of the distant accommodation is full.
Tuesday 28 May Unienville to Bar-sur-Aube about 19 kms. A short day as planned but I was here by midday so checked in early at the monastery. No protocols here, much more relaxed than previous. A lot of very quiet country roads which was pleasant with an abundance of wildlife and fauna. A cold but sunny day but dry feet all day which was needed. Met up with an Italian cyclist and we had a chat with me desperately trying to brush up my language skills. The town is very pleasant with multiple old buildings. Went shopping for the evening meal Two other Italian walkers turned up and they joined us for dinner too, much like it used to be on the Camino in Spain. Rain is forecast for the next four days and I need to crunch a few miles tomorrow which is going to be tough.
Carol White
Glad you have some buddies tonight.
🤞 for tomoz xxx
Paul è un gran camminare. Simpatico e disponibile. Ha una storia incredibile alle spalle. Abbiamo cenato assieme in questo paesino semideserto e in un cammino dove trovare altri pellegrini è raro e mi ha fatto molto piacere sentire le sue dita e i suoi viaggi. Ti auguro tanti chilometri e poca pioggia. Buen camino… Utreia et suseia. Loris
Wednesday 29 May Bar sur Aube to Blessonville 36 kms. Weather was looking dodgy from the start and became frustratingly worse with extreme heavy downpours. Waterproofs were on and off constantly, including the trousers. I even took shelter at one stage in the railway signal box. Not much to see on route, especially as I was on road most of the time. Arrived at Blessonville and was welcomed by the host to a very nice accommodation. A girl from Holland arrived too so we cooked dinner together and made plans for our stays over the next couple of days.
Thursday 30 May Blessonville to Langres, 38 kms. Rain held off mainly although it was threatening all day and cool. Pushed hard in the morning , avoiding the routes that took you on the busy highway. Had lunch at one of the big lakes and met up with a Belgian guy doing part of the walk. Lovely scenery across the lake and a tough climb at the end of the day to reach the ancient walled town of Langres. Staying in a monastery along with an old French guy and 2 Americans. The accommodation is adequate and cooked up a huge meal so going to bed with a full stomach 😆 Evrryone else has gone to bed really early so time to catch up on my blog ! Just realised that I’m a fair way down through France now and there are concerns about 8m of snow being on the Swiss tunnel and not being allowed to cross the border!
Friday 31 May Langres to Leffond 30 kms. Left the town in a rain jacket which stayed on pretty much all day. The other guys packed up and left before me so I set off about 0800 after a ‘breakfast’. Busy road out of town and a case of just getting on with it. Met up with Bill and Jake (Americans) in one of the villages before moving on. Not much to report on the way, some lovely wild flowers and plenty of skylarks and buzzards for some reason. Left Jake at Maâtz where they were staying. The last few kms seemed endless but arrived in good time to do my doby, shower and admin tasks. Jake and Bill then turned up as their accommodation was more basic than belief so three of us for the night. Had food delivered by the host and we ate together. We were then invited to a fetes de village which was a gathering of 40 or so of the villagers where they all bring food and wine and spend the evening socialising (annual French event). They all cheered excitedly when we turned up and started singing. Even more food including roasted wild boar. Late finish so exhausted.
Saturday 1 June Leffond to Dampierre-sur-Salon, short day 24.8 kms. Well ahead of schedule so trying to give my left foot a rest in preparation for Switzerland. Jake and Bill stayed behind as there was an arrangement made last night for some people turning up to accompany us for a short way on the walk along with dogs and a journalist. I didn’t set out until 0900 but the villagers weren’t showing until 1000, which was too late for me.
Proceeded at a slightly slower pace to rest up a bit, especially as it was a shorter distance. Some pretty little villages en route, a couple of small climbs too. Champlitte was quite big and was a mix of old and new with tiny narrow streets in places. Got to the gite just after 1300 which is more up market. Went to town to get some lunch and some food for tomorrow as Sundays are absolutely dead so food needed. Dinner provided by the host. Jake and Bill arrived a couple hours after as expected. We’re proba only 4-5 days from crossing to Switzerland now and can almost taste the fondue and chocolate. Don’t forget I’ll be switching to the Swiss posts the !
Sunday 2 June Dampierre sur Salon to Frasne-le-Chateau about 26 kms, another short day (part of the plan). A very nice breakfast before departing in the pouring rain. Walked at a reasonable pace with Jake and finally the rain eased enough to remove the waterproofs. Pretty uneventful, all on road but kept quite dry as a result. The 175 year old property we are staying in is like an olde curiosity shop, so many fascinating artefacts. The woman Mme Marie Grenier is a fantastic host and prepared us lunch alongside a roaring fire. The home is like an Aladdin’s cave, so many things of interest. Good chance to prep and catch up on admin.
Monday 3 June Frasne-le-Chateau to Besancon 34kms. A dry day but not warm as was forecast. Set out at a pace with Jake and soon became aware another blister was forming. The journey was mostly road with long views ahead of where we were going. Caught Bill up who had left super early and had a snack. Pressed on into the huge suburbs of Besancon which is a major city/town. It’s very picturesque with many old buildings. I had arranged a Couchsurfing stay but realised it was 5 miles from town so I sadly declined and found accommodation at a monastery/convent which was basic but clean. Had a hobble around town to get food for the evening meal.
Tuesday 4 June Besancon to Montgesoye 34 kms. A complete change of scenery today. Started with a short steep climb, followed by a steep decline to the river followed by an almost vertical climb to the highest possible point. Welcome to the alps. There are no real shortcuts and you just have to get your head down and get on with it. It’s slightly warmer too which was instantly noticeable. I was alone today as Jake and Bill had set off separately. One noticeable difference is the cows wearing cowbells. The pastures are lush and the cows look good on it. Had to work my way around some very busy roads and once out of Bresancon, I made some good progress. Reached Ornans town which was exquisite. It was so beautiful and had an extremely high gushing river flowing through at a rate of knots. Finished the last few jams to reach the destination which like all the other buildings is like a Swiss chalet. Jake had a puncture on his cart so was a little delayed in arriving with Bill but on the flip side, Bill brought some ingredients so we could have a decent meal – yes, us Brits can cook too !
Wednesday June 5 Montgesoye to Pontarlier about 35 kms. A steady climb from the lodgings which then turned into an elongated very steep climb that went on forever. The scenery was very dramatic though although the route produced some horrible blind bends which were hazardous. There were a couple of scenic villages on the ascent worthy of photos. Met an Australian driver who stopped to say he’d done the VF before and he was from Brisbane. I then joined the VF solo while the others continued on the busy highway. I experienced some lovely countryside before turning up on the outskirts of Pontarlier. Found the youth hostel but had to wait until 1700 to get in. Met a Swiss Italian guy Andrea who I think we might team up with. Went for a kebab meal as a foursome talking about accommodation for the forthcoming expensive Swiss days. This is our last day in France so please refer to Switzerland from here on in.
Thursday 6 June Pontarlier to St Croix 23 kms. Started easy but soon developed into some stiff inclines in muddy woods. Some incredible scenery and fair weather. Followed the VF and came across an ancient hill fort with glorious views. Really feel like I’m in South France now. Found some mud at last and managed to get stung by nettles ☹️ Met a couple of Californians taking their time and continued on the incessant climbing. Crossed the border into Switzerland which was a boost. Arrived at St Croix shortly after lunch when I managed to get some admin done. A very old building which was kind of weird but the host was very welcoming with a collection of music boxes and collectibles from 150 years ago. Had dinner which was enjoyable but small and had to go hunt down a restaurant for top ups, followed by ice cream 🤪
Superb layout and design, but most of all, concise and helpful information. Great job, site admin. Take a look at my website Webemail24 for some cool facts about Search Engine Optimization.
I like how well-written and informative your content is. You have actually given us, your readers, brilliant information and not just filled up your blog with flowery texts like many blogs today do. If you visit my website Seoranko about Search Engine Optimization, I’m sure you can also find something for yourself.
Arrived at Calais at midday but had to wait a while for the vehicles to disembark. Cooler today. Walked into Calais town hall with Vigo and then went our separate ways with me continuing to Guînes. Walked alongside the canal for a lot of the walk but it was a leisurely day aimed at letting the feet recover. Wishing I’d had more time to brush up on my atrocious French as every small thing seems so difficult. Managed to find accommodation costing more than I hoped for and went to a Portuguese restaurant in the hope the waitress would speak Spanish but no …. Only French.
14th May 2024 Set off from Guînes in the rain with waterproofs on. It wasn’t too long before they were off as I was sweating buckets. It rained on and off in the morning but turned into more persistent heavy rain in the afternoon. It was a long day about 44kms and I arrived at St Paul Abbey in Wisques cold, very wet and hungry. The monks were all dressed in black hooded robes and were mainly silent. I had to be led to evening meal by the grand master, I washed my hands in a silver dish of water offered by the grand master and then had to observe all the protocols in place. Eating is done in silence although there was endless chanting. I was the only pilgrim there but there were two other men guests (male only) and one was on a retreat from the UK although he was French but currently living in Oxford and working for Airbus ! I didn’t get a lot of sleep as the bed creaked every time I moved. It was lights out at 2045 as the services started at 0430. The monks were all very charming but it was quite a relief to get back out to normality.
15th May Left the almost surreal experience of staying in the abbey after having a couple of small slices of bread for breakfast. Managed to get some miles in as there was a lot of road walking and where it had rained yesterday, it was wet claggy soil underfoot so road is good. Unfortunately I did have one stretch in long grass and got stung by the nettles several times as they were unavoidable and my feet got soaked again. Ended up with a relatively short day of about 44 kms and rolled into a farmhouse gite hostel which is very nice. Unfortunately there has been no food available so I have survived on water and cashew nuts I had left over from England. I was greeted with a blond beer which went down very well. More pilgrims are expected but no sign yet at 1830. Looking forward to some dinner tonight !
You are absolutely amazing. Can’t believe you have been surviving on water and cashew nuts. And there you are , burning up hundreds of calories. Love reading your blog Paul – constantly thinking about you xx
From Auntie Jean, as good as any book. Ju has promised to read each Thursday when she stays & I can’t wait for next weeks chapter! Lots of love & happy walking
Sounds fun !!!!! 😬 I honestly don’t know how you do it especially the lack of food but it all sounds really interesting. Thanks for sharing everything, loving the photos.
Take care and we look forward to the next installment xoxo
Thursday 16th May – Started out in pouring rain and I mean pouring! That lasted for a good 3 hours of sloshing through puddles and slipping and sliding in mud. Came across a Lidl’s so I treated myself to some food for later on. There was quite a bit of navigating around houses and streets today which made life harder. By lunchtime though, the waterproofs were discarded and gathered some speed over the hills and high ground. At 42kms, I started to look for somewhere to stay but the first place was full. I then had a serious climb to Mont St Eloi which meant going back on myself. I was lucky to stay with some old retired pilgrims (a retired doctor) and his charming wife. More blonde beer which is growing on me. I then ate at a restaurant almost next door and made my way to a bar on the other side (who had helped me with finding the accommodation) for more beer and enjoyed a convivial evening with the occupants discussing the nuances of the French language. Beautiful sunset.
Paul,
Go for it. Superb attempt.
Friday 17th May Mont St Eloi to Bapaume. Started seeing many war graves as this was an area from WW1 which was a focal point with so many young men tragically losing their lives. I’ve tried to imagine what it must have been like but it’s impossible to think of their hardship and misery. There are still shells discarded by the side of the paths, over 100 years ago. It’s moving to see how immaculately the commonwealth war graves are kept after all this time. Walked through Arras, again a focal point which was a pretty town. Met a couple from the south of France near Switzerland who were doing part of the via Francigena. Accommodation proved to be elusive in Bapaume and by phone, I managed to find somewhere right out of town so I started to walk there in the rain. I was collected from the church at Villers au Flos by the Vietnamese host and taken to Ytres to their lovely home. Long day again.
Sat 18 May Bapaume to Saint Quentin. Taken back to the church where I was picked up last night. Rain moved in with grey skies as far as I could see. More war graves today, very sobering. Met an English couple having lunch, Zoe and Ben from Dorset. They are camping and walked at a more relaxed pace so I went solo again. No luck with accommodation again as it is apparently a long weekend and the fire I was banking on was booked by a Dutch group who were heading to Normandy with their wartime vehicles for the anniversary. I was kindly given a lift by one of the horse riders at the property into Saint Quentin which is huge. First hotel fully booked but got into the Ibis Budget. Again, some kind man stopped and gave me a lift to more or less the hotel. It’s pretty basic but is adequate. Some new blisters today, one nasty blood blister , maybe the sock had slipped in the shoes. Feet got wet and looks like a hole in one of the shoes 😧. Had a salad and other bits in the square where the wino’s sit and then tried planning how to get back to Trefcon to continue where I left off.
Good luck! You can always have a rest day 😘
What an amazing man you are Paul. We are all so very proud of you, love reading your blog and hearing all your interesting stories.
Keep well and rest your feet.
Lots of love Joan & Tony xxx
Sunday 19 May St Quentin to Trefcon to Seraucourt-le-Grand. Frustrating start as no trains or buses running on Sunday to Trefcon where I finished walking last night. Taxi prices were ridiculous so decided to walk the 18 kms back in just about 3 hrs. Saint Quentin was beautifully quiet at that time of the morning but nothing was open so missed out on breakfast and had to make do with a Snickers bar. Once I’d arrived at Trefcon, I had to retrace a few kms of the same ground but I couldn’t cheat myself and not do the whole thing. A lot of road walking and it was warm too and thundery. Again, not much open so missed out on lunch but did manage to get some liquid refreshment – not beer. Rolled into Seraucourt-le-Grand early afternoon and ended up in a caravan for the night on a very nice campground. The woman receptionist was so helpful and spoke good English and she helped me book the next couple of nights accommodation on the phone. Often the highlight of the day is a hot shower and it didn’t disappoint! A local shop opened in the afternoon so pasta for dinner which I shared with a Dutch guy Peter who is cycling to Santiago in Spain. A really nice guy, we spent the evening chewing the fat about the change in Dutch government and autism and ADHD. Eaten alive by huge mosquitoes with equally huge bites !
Monday 20 May Seraucourt-le-Grand to Septvaux. Thunder in the night and cuckoo’s calling until dark and then early morning. I left before anyone else was up and it was quite cool which was handy as it was quite hilly to start. It’s a bank holiday today so not many cars on the road to start with and quite a bit of road walking. After a good leg and foot soaking in the long grass, I was alongside a beautiful canal with continued for many kms to Tergnier and beyond which to be honest became quite boring as you could see where you were going so far ahead with no changes in scenery. Everything is shut again but in Saint Gobain which required a tough hill climb, there was some kind of market on. The next village was my destination – Septvaux and was very remote. It’s an old chateau in the woods and I’ve only seen the woman who doesn’t speak English once. She rather reminds me of the film where the woman hobbles the car driver who gets injured with a sledgehammer – Misery. There doesn’t appear to be a key to lock the door so might sleep with one eye open tonight. Cooked a huge bowl of pasta which she kindly drove out to get some ingredients (just like the film) but now there is total silence. Good job I don’t spook too easily.
Hope you sleep well and you are NOT part of Misery 2 x
Wow Paul. Really enjoying reading about your journey. You must publish it later
Take care. Xx
Tuesday 21 May Septvaux to Laon. Had an enjoyable breakfast and settled up after checking my ankles were intact 🤪 Started in mist/low cloud as quite high altitude. Walked through thick forest and not a soul in sight. Avoided some of the seriously muddy tracks and took the roads where possible. Waterproofs were on and off as the mist developed into proper rain for a couple of hours. A very steep climb into Laon to the walled medieval town. Very quaint with cobbled streets and ancient buildings. Made my way to the cathedral of Notre Dame and found the accommodation. The host is a lovely lady in a very old fashioned house, full of historical artefacts. The bedroom is like taking a century back in time but more than adequate. Had a long chat with the 85 year old host about various things including her memories of the German occupation, World War 1 and the current international crises. Had a chilled walk around the town snapping away taking photos. Joined by a couple of French hikers, similar age to me, doing just a few days of walking. Congregating for a meal at 1900.
Wednesday 22 May Laon to Pontavert 32 kms. Restful day with easy flat walking most of the time in nature reserves. Laon was so interesting, as was the charming host. Sharp descent from Laon through small picturesque villages. Made good time and had one funny part where a walkway was being replaced by about 6 French workmen. They said I couldn’t pass as it was too dangerous. I told them to close their eyes (twice) and then just went for it while they stood there open mouthed while I crossed with the get out clause ‘I don’t understand’. Lunch on a hilltop in Corbeny before arriving in Pontavert mid afternoon. Passed a rotting wild boar in a field (see photo) which stunk to high heaven but was a large beast. Hotel is more up market than usual and not sure how I’ll be accepted in my rags for the 3 course meal tonight !
Interesting photos today Paul . Apart from the boar . Still love reading your daily blog. Always something grabs me – today it was when you asked the workmen to close their eyes !
Thursday 23 May Pontavert to Reims about 40kms. A mixed terrain day with some good climbs at times, some awkwardly big puddles and plenty of mud. Started out thinking I might do mainly road where I could, which meant a few extra kms. Tried going off road but the long grass was so wet it wasn’t practical. Had some woodland just past the champagne region of Cormicy but eaten alive by mosquitoes without realising! More WW1 memorials and a cloudy day overall with one heavy shower where I took shelter. Reims seemed to be getting further away towards the end of the day and was actually rather disappointing. It’s a big city with a lovely cathedral with big buildings like London. Maybe I missed it all but very underwhelming. Staying at a monastery tonight with nuns and one other Dutch pilgrim going to Versailles. Very little English spoken here and 3 miles out of town. It’s a welcome basic break but I’ve decided I don’t like big cities and prefer the smaller villages with a family atmosphere.
No beer tonight then – sleep well! Looking forward to the case of champagne 🍾 arriving 🤣x
No beer and there are no shops selling the champagne strangely. I would love a glass. The guy here sells to Verve Cliquot.
Friday 24 May Reims to Trepail, short day, about 25 kms. Left the monastery around 0745 and made good progress on the dry flat canal path for 10 kms. Back into the Champagne vineyards along with the vicious huge mosquitoes. Some hill work today, especially to reach the hilltop with a windmill ! Some woodland but satisfyingly dry. Repeal was like a ghost town not a soul in sight. The old lady running the property had to go out and left me in charge. She doesn’t speak a word of English do quite amusing 😂. Made good use of the day to complete admin. Dinner looks delicious, true French cuisine cooked by the host.
Saturday 25 May Trépail to Saint Germaine le Ville about 43 kms. Loving the chilly mornings with low cloud as it’s a chance to get some miles in before the cloud clears. Fairly easy going underfoot and much of it was along the canal which had a tarmacked footpath. Didn’t see many people out although there was a run along the canal path. Had the opportunity to buy some lunch bits in Lidl’s in Châlons-en-Champagne. My old friend Tian kindly drove down from Brussels to meet up which was a great gesture and we went out for food and a beer. It was great to catch up but he decided not to stay and head back about 2115. Had a shower incident earlier after tumbling and couldn’t get out of the shower. All good now though 👍.
Wow you covered a lot of mileage today! Glad tomorrow is less. XXX
Sunday 26 May Saint Germaine le Ville to Balignicourt, just over 50 kms. Waited for breakfast until just before 0800 but with no sign of anybody, decided to forfeit it so I didn’t lose valuable time. Popped into the local boulangerie and had fresh croissants etc. A lot of the walking today was on old Roman roads which are covered in gravel but you can see for miles ahead where you are going. On top of that, had a stiff wind in my face nearly all day. Unknowingly burnt my head although didn’t get any direct exposure to the sun. Pushed hard and arrived around 1730 where we had cherry beer which went down a treat. The dinner was a delight, true French cooking with a few glasses of different apperatifs. Very friendly family working on the farm.
Wow Paul, I’m exhausted just reading this!
Think I need a lay down!
Anyway keep going, keep smiling and keep enjoying life xx
Was a bit tiring yesterday tbh and wouldn’t want to be doing that distance everyday although it gets me that little bit closer to Rome 😉
Monday 27 May Balignicourt to Unienville approx 38 kms (more than I planned thanks to inaccuracies with the map), plus everything shuts on Monday – more than usual😉 Sorry to leave the family stay but time waits for nobody. Made good progress on the road and tracks although I need to watch where I’m treading so the odd small rock doesn’t dig into my blistered left foot. Map sent me off through an unbelievably muddy wood which was not fun. I also missed the town I was hoping to visit to visit the hole in the wall to get some more cash so had an additional 6 kms to retrace steps. I was also hoping to get some lunch but everything was shut like a ghost town. Did get 1.5l of cold water which I pretty much guzzled down in one. Not many remarkable things to photograph, maybe I’m just getting used to the scenery? Glad to arrive at the accommodation as I have a very sore foot. I’m alone in the Gite and have cooked an omelette and shown where everything is by the visiting host who was very friendly. I have to say people have been amazingly helpful and with my very limited French, I think having a go is appreciated. Less miles planned tomorrow as a lot of the distant accommodation is full.
Tuesday 28 May Unienville to Bar-sur-Aube about 19 kms. A short day as planned but I was here by midday so checked in early at the monastery. No protocols here, much more relaxed than previous. A lot of very quiet country roads which was pleasant with an abundance of wildlife and fauna. A cold but sunny day but dry feet all day which was needed. Met up with an Italian cyclist and we had a chat with me desperately trying to brush up my language skills. The town is very pleasant with multiple old buildings. Went shopping for the evening meal Two other Italian walkers turned up and they joined us for dinner too, much like it used to be on the Camino in Spain. Rain is forecast for the next four days and I need to crunch a few miles tomorrow which is going to be tough.
Glad you have some buddies tonight.
🤞 for tomoz xxx
Paul è un gran camminare. Simpatico e disponibile. Ha una storia incredibile alle spalle. Abbiamo cenato assieme in questo paesino semideserto e in un cammino dove trovare altri pellegrini è raro e mi ha fatto molto piacere sentire le sue dita e i suoi viaggi. Ti auguro tanti chilometri e poca pioggia. Buen camino… Utreia et suseia. Loris
Wednesday 29 May Bar sur Aube to Blessonville 36 kms. Weather was looking dodgy from the start and became frustratingly worse with extreme heavy downpours. Waterproofs were on and off constantly, including the trousers. I even took shelter at one stage in the railway signal box. Not much to see on route, especially as I was on road most of the time. Arrived at Blessonville and was welcomed by the host to a very nice accommodation. A girl from Holland arrived too so we cooked dinner together and made plans for our stays over the next couple of days.
Thursday 30 May Blessonville to Langres, 38 kms. Rain held off mainly although it was threatening all day and cool. Pushed hard in the morning , avoiding the routes that took you on the busy highway. Had lunch at one of the big lakes and met up with a Belgian guy doing part of the walk. Lovely scenery across the lake and a tough climb at the end of the day to reach the ancient walled town of Langres. Staying in a monastery along with an old French guy and 2 Americans. The accommodation is adequate and cooked up a huge meal so going to bed with a full stomach 😆 Evrryone else has gone to bed really early so time to catch up on my blog ! Just realised that I’m a fair way down through France now and there are concerns about 8m of snow being on the Swiss tunnel and not being allowed to cross the border!
Friday 31 May Langres to Leffond 30 kms. Left the town in a rain jacket which stayed on pretty much all day. The other guys packed up and left before me so I set off about 0800 after a ‘breakfast’. Busy road out of town and a case of just getting on with it. Met up with Bill and Jake (Americans) in one of the villages before moving on. Not much to report on the way, some lovely wild flowers and plenty of skylarks and buzzards for some reason. Left Jake at Maâtz where they were staying. The last few kms seemed endless but arrived in good time to do my doby, shower and admin tasks. Jake and Bill then turned up as their accommodation was more basic than belief so three of us for the night. Had food delivered by the host and we ate together. We were then invited to a fetes de village which was a gathering of 40 or so of the villagers where they all bring food and wine and spend the evening socialising (annual French event). They all cheered excitedly when we turned up and started singing. Even more food including roasted wild boar. Late finish so exhausted.
Saturday 1 June Leffond to Dampierre-sur-Salon, short day 24.8 kms. Well ahead of schedule so trying to give my left foot a rest in preparation for Switzerland. Jake and Bill stayed behind as there was an arrangement made last night for some people turning up to accompany us for a short way on the walk along with dogs and a journalist. I didn’t set out until 0900 but the villagers weren’t showing until 1000, which was too late for me.
Proceeded at a slightly slower pace to rest up a bit, especially as it was a shorter distance. Some pretty little villages en route, a couple of small climbs too. Champlitte was quite big and was a mix of old and new with tiny narrow streets in places. Got to the gite just after 1300 which is more up market. Went to town to get some lunch and some food for tomorrow as Sundays are absolutely dead so food needed. Dinner provided by the host. Jake and Bill arrived a couple hours after as expected. We’re proba only 4-5 days from crossing to Switzerland now and can almost taste the fondue and chocolate. Don’t forget I’ll be switching to the Swiss posts the !
Sunday 2 June Dampierre sur Salon to Frasne-le-Chateau about 26 kms, another short day (part of the plan). A very nice breakfast before departing in the pouring rain. Walked at a reasonable pace with Jake and finally the rain eased enough to remove the waterproofs. Pretty uneventful, all on road but kept quite dry as a result. The 175 year old property we are staying in is like an olde curiosity shop, so many fascinating artefacts. The woman Mme Marie Grenier is a fantastic host and prepared us lunch alongside a roaring fire. The home is like an Aladdin’s cave, so many things of interest. Good chance to prep and catch up on admin.
Monday 3 June Frasne-le-Chateau to Besancon 34kms. A dry day but not warm as was forecast. Set out at a pace with Jake and soon became aware another blister was forming. The journey was mostly road with long views ahead of where we were going. Caught Bill up who had left super early and had a snack. Pressed on into the huge suburbs of Besancon which is a major city/town. It’s very picturesque with many old buildings. I had arranged a Couchsurfing stay but realised it was 5 miles from town so I sadly declined and found accommodation at a monastery/convent which was basic but clean. Had a hobble around town to get food for the evening meal.
Tuesday 4 June Besancon to Montgesoye 34 kms. A complete change of scenery today. Started with a short steep climb, followed by a steep decline to the river followed by an almost vertical climb to the highest possible point. Welcome to the alps. There are no real shortcuts and you just have to get your head down and get on with it. It’s slightly warmer too which was instantly noticeable. I was alone today as Jake and Bill had set off separately. One noticeable difference is the cows wearing cowbells. The pastures are lush and the cows look good on it. Had to work my way around some very busy roads and once out of Bresancon, I made some good progress. Reached Ornans town which was exquisite. It was so beautiful and had an extremely high gushing river flowing through at a rate of knots. Finished the last few jams to reach the destination which like all the other buildings is like a Swiss chalet. Jake had a puncture on his cart so was a little delayed in arriving with Bill but on the flip side, Bill brought some ingredients so we could have a decent meal – yes, us Brits can cook too !
Wednesday June 5 Montgesoye to Pontarlier about 35 kms. A steady climb from the lodgings which then turned into an elongated very steep climb that went on forever. The scenery was very dramatic though although the route produced some horrible blind bends which were hazardous. There were a couple of scenic villages on the ascent worthy of photos. Met an Australian driver who stopped to say he’d done the VF before and he was from Brisbane. I then joined the VF solo while the others continued on the busy highway. I experienced some lovely countryside before turning up on the outskirts of Pontarlier. Found the youth hostel but had to wait until 1700 to get in. Met a Swiss Italian guy Andrea who I think we might team up with. Went for a kebab meal as a foursome talking about accommodation for the forthcoming expensive Swiss days. This is our last day in France so please refer to Switzerland from here on in.
Thursday 6 June Pontarlier to St Croix 23 kms. Started easy but soon developed into some stiff inclines in muddy woods. Some incredible scenery and fair weather. Followed the VF and came across an ancient hill fort with glorious views. Really feel like I’m in South France now. Found some mud at last and managed to get stung by nettles ☹️ Met a couple of Californians taking their time and continued on the incessant climbing. Crossed the border into Switzerland which was a boost. Arrived at St Croix shortly after lunch when I managed to get some admin done. A very old building which was kind of weird but the host was very welcoming with a collection of music boxes and collectibles from 150 years ago. Had dinner which was enjoyable but small and had to go hunt down a restaurant for top ups, followed by ice cream 🤪
Superb layout and design, but most of all, concise and helpful information. Great job, site admin. Take a look at my website Webemail24 for some cool facts about Search Engine Optimization.
Thanks for the compliments Felix
I like how well-written and informative your content is. You have actually given us, your readers, brilliant information and not just filled up your blog with flowery texts like many blogs today do. If you visit my website Seoranko about Search Engine Optimization, I’m sure you can also find something for yourself.